i'm gonna have a transmission flush done on my 2002 'rango (4.7l) and i keep getting different answers when i look/talk around between chilton and two other auto parts stores and a couple forums i have a 6 qt difference..

i'm going to use royal purple atf and at $13.25/qt i'd like to make sure i'm not spending more than i have to! lol

does anyone know the correct atf fluid capacity??

thanks!

 

Don't flush it! Have it purged instead, flushing can do lots of harm. Here is the link on how to purge it https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...nsmission.html
Everyone on here advises using valvoline atf+4. Hydra I think was going to experiment with mobile one to see if it works. Has royal purple been approved by chrysler?

 

basically i'm just trying to figure out what i want to do regarding the transmission fluid...

have a good local shop that will do it for me..

whether i want to go with standard aft fluid or royal purple the cost goes from $165 (flush and their fluid) or $100 (plus the cost for me to buy my own fluid)

i'd like it to last a good long time and my father in law uses amsoil in his intrepid (over 300k miles on orig tranny)

makes me think that is the best route (synthetic)

also, doing a out of state road trip in september and i'd like to have all the fluids in tip top condition before i leave..

 

just called the dealership and they want 180 just for a pan drop and dual filter change (another $90) for a full flush.. (they use mopar atf and just said over the phone that "synthetics have been known to cause damage") that all in itself makes no sense to me.. a better fluid causes damage?!!!?!?!

transmissions are one of the things that i know the absolute LEAST about and getting all these numbers thrown at me is always a little daunting when you start something new..

 

i would only use a chrysler approved atf +4 in these transmissions, they are VERY PICKY. that said, it depends on what you are doing how much fluid you will need, i believe a fluid and filter CHANGE is 6-8 quarts, a full purge of the system (changing all the fluid) is 13 iirc.

as said above DO NOT FLUSH THE TRANSMISSION, it has been known to blow seals and the chemicals/fluids they use are not compatible with the ATF +4

 

ok ok.. looks like i might have my terms confused.. the way i look at a flush is getting rid of all the fluid in the tranny pan / torq converter.. not putting anything else in there..

line of questioning i gave my local shop owner.. "during a flush do you literally just run out the old fluid and replace with new correct? or is there some type of "cleaning agent" that is introduced into the system prior to refilling with aft fluid.."

his reply? -> "Yes it really is just running the engine to run out the old fluid and then pumping new fluid in.No there is no cleaning agent because atf has detergents in it already so there is no need to add any."

so, i'm looking at skipping royal purple (until it's approved by mopar/chrysler).. thinking amsoil atf+4(http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?GroupID=208)?

does anyone have a better brand/idea of what i should go with?

 

Don' spend the money for a flush...it will most likely cost you more money when the seals go and you have transmission failure....Drop the pan, drain the fluid, remove/replace the filters use RTV and call it a day. Save the money and time of a flush for a nice cold adult beverage (Assuming you are over 21) if not then take the woman out for lunch or dinner.

The dealer visit may be more expensive but this is one of the few times I would recommend them. You can get the ATF+4, filters yes FILTER (S) as in two, a blade type and a spin on oil type filter you will see them when you drop the pan.

The dealer one stop shopping may have some benefits but if you don't get the fluid there then my next recommendation would be VALVOLINE ATF+4 Meets Chrysler engineering standards, and is fairly readily available.

Get the filters, RTV Sealant, use that as your gasket, a tube should last you at least two fluid filter changes if stored properly. Get the ATF+4 There, I personally recommend about 1-2 quarts more than the manual calls for but.....

BUT Do not open the extra ones, keep them if you need them but dont open unless absolutely necessary, once the seal is cracked on the bottle you can't return it. If you keep the receipt you should be able to return the extras if you dont need them. I just hate running out of fluid mid project. Take your time and pour carefully.

Now when this subject comes up I put my plug for the MAG-HYTEC 545RFE Transmission pan. A little pricey but pays for itself in that this pan has a drain plug and makes a lot cleaner removal/replacement of fluid. The Factory pan DOES NOT HAVE DRAIN PLUG apparently the dealers suck it out through the fill tube similiar to BMW/Mercedes. You can drain the fluid, then remove the pan. remember if you are draining the pan have a good high capacity drain pan and drip tray readily available. Very messy without one.

 

Another thing to inspect before you visit the dealer is the pan itself. Mine started rusting after about 5 years on the vehicle. I replaced with the MAG-HYTEC pans but priced the dealers OEM replacement pans and they were running around $65 in mid 2009.

Without pan expect to spend a little north of $100 with fluid, RTV, filters.

 

Magic84 his guy described purging it which is the right way, and not a machine flush. Amsoil is good stuff but I don't think it was approved by chrysler yet. I had thought about using amsoil since I run there signature series motor oil but valvoline was one of the first approved by chrysler and they always have made a quality product.

 

Thanks adu, purging is the fluid filter that basically drains everything except the torque converter, which if properly maintained should last quite a while with the fluid inside.

I can't speak for AMSOIL the only thing I have used is MOPAR ATF+4 or Valvoline AT+4 there was a thread which listed the Chrysleer Engineering department specifications and AUTHORIZED cross references for off brands which met their specs and had their seal of approval. I will look around but if someone beats me to it I wont be offended...Hint Sharps, Hydra, IndyD....Hint Hint!!!

I believe the replacement capacity is around six quarts for a normal fluid R/R. If you do decide to go with the MAG HYTEC PAN Plan a couple of more quarts, this pan is a little deeper which helps provide more circulation area which in turn keep fluid cooler.

Again when doing the fluid It wouldnt hurt to keep an additional 1-2 quarts on hand just to be safe, remember if you dont open or crack the safety seal you should be able to return.

One thing I didnt mention earlier and this is personal preference and comes from my military days, but get all bottles from the same lot/batch number, they should be labled on the bottle and keeps quality control easier. Again not a requirement but I recommend this.