Let me start from the beginning. About 14 months ago my abs module overheated. So I pulled the fuse for the pump (cause the pump wouldn't shut of at all). I continued to drive it (not my smartest move). This spring my speedo went crazy, it would all of a sudden peg when I slowing down ect. So after having my abs module rebuilt the light was still on but the speedo worked and the pump wasn't running all the time. So today I finally got it in to a shop and had the codes pulled. EVERY SINGLE CODE THAT COULD POSSIBLY SHOW UP DID, the tech even took me back and showed me. They felt so bad for me they didn't charge me. Having said that I think the rebuild service screwed me. I checked the dealership wants $499 for a rebuilt and about $1200 new. I'm having a hard time finding a used one here in ND, I even checked SD (It is 4whl abs, I can find a million 2whl). Any suggestions? By the way the service was off ebay.

 

What's the part number? Module or pump? You may have to go out of state farther. There are search request engines on the net where tour request gets sent to multiple salvage yards. Junkyard Dog is one that I have used.

 

There are two part #'s on the module P52009733AD, TXXBK3367B0412. It is a kelsey-hayes module. Thanks for the link TNtech, just sent a request.

 

You'll get a bunch of responses. Some will be just stupid expensive then a couple will be in line. I prefer salvage yards out in the desert southwest....less rust

 

Ok so I sent a email to the ebay rebuilder and this is the response I got:
Have you tested the pump itself ,
With this many fault codes existing after the rebuilt EBCM is Installed
This normally points to the Pump .
Your account shows that the Original Purchaser has a Lifetime warranty .
My suggestion is to test the Internal Armature/Brush contacts of the Pump itself , your Mechanic should be able to Inform you if the Pump is faulty by accessing his Scanners ability to ohm test the Pump.
Triggering the Pump for activation is not good enough ,you will have to ohm it to Determine this.
Is there any Corrosion at the Solenoid Valve Stems? This is where the EBCM seats at the Pump.
This is a sure sign that the pump may have been Inhibited and is causing the Voltage to Increase which in turns damages the EBCM Internally by corroding the Copper armature windings.

Is this true or a load of crap? Also if this is a possibility can this be done with out using a scan tool. I am quite handy with a multi-meter. Thanks for any input.

 

I would swap out the ABS Module.

With that many codes and the pump staying on it points to the module. How else is it to get power unless the module is sending the power in the first place because of a bad module. You can go to a junk yard and find one of the same year and 4 wheel or RAWL braking system and (the same as yours including 4X4) and they will swap right out, doesn't need to be the same part number.

 

Thanks hydra, I will try to find one. I have gotten about 6 replies for the link TNtech gave me.

 

Alright, I know this thread is ancient but I have info to update now. I got them to rebuild the module a second time under warranty. Now the same thing happened again with the lights and codes. So I took it in to have the pump tested. The solenoids wouldn't open and the pump sounded like it was about to die. The tech test drove it and could monitor all signals from wheel sensors and stuff were fine, but the codes were saying there was no signal, weird eh . Anyways I'm looking for a pump now and hopefully this will finally be resolved .

 

Alright, I got a used pump on the way through a local shop for $180, with all the testing and install of the module they did plus the labor to install the pump (including the $180 for the pump) is $390. I don't think this is to bad of a deal do you guys.

 

In my opinion, yes, it's too much, but I'm old (I remember when shop rates were $15 per hour), and I'm also a cheapskate, so it probably isn't too bad, I guess.