Hey guys,Need to run this by you all before I tear in.
I bought the Durango with the ABS and check engine light on.Whether it's by the odometer read or an OBDII I get a P0500,no vehicle speed sensor signal...So,here's the rundown so far...
1)the sensor in the rear diff looks replaced and looks to be in decent shape,it came out without forcing.Tested it,more on that after.
2) the idiot prior mechanic wire tied the tranfercase shift link to the tranny speed sensor wiring and I think it might be fubar'ed from idiots trying to shift it,I'm going to recheck the wiring and test it at the CAB/HCU and make sure it a good circut
3)the HCU stays running all the time if it's plugged in,most likely from the P0500 cause,I think the system might think my diff isn't spinning and it's tripping the ABS but I think the ABS sensor is ok.
4)No speedometer at all....not like the common 30mph and below thing
Everything else is good,absolutely no running or shifting problems.

So.First question,do the abs speed sensor and the trans speed sensor work together and could a sensor fail and/or wiring at the trans be the prob? or are they completely separate?
I get a 2.08ohm on the old abs sensor and a 2.00 on the new(on the 20k ohm scale) can't find the spec,is the .08 diff ok?
I set the meter on ac volt and wave a steel ruler by the sensor tip and get a voltage reading on both....Verry low but they both read

So,I think I'm pissin in the wind replacing the ABS speed sensor and that I should put on a new o-ring and put it back in...maybe drop the diff cover and look at the tone wheel but they don't fail that often.
I talked with a dodge tech he told me of the same issue with a durango that the DRB gave the P0500 on and it turned out to be dash work,some bad wiring at the ignition control switch,never heard of that before....
Sorry for being so long,just wanted to give ALL the details before I asked.
What do you guys think? the wiring at the trans sensor or is that a waste of time and look elseware?..ideas?

 

P0500 No Vehicle Speed Sens Signal

Yes both the trans speed sensor and rear ABS speed sensor work together on the same circuit. I just replaced both of mine because they read open. When I tested at 20k ohm I think I got about 230 or so as I can't remember, but the new ones were close, whereas the old ones where open and bad. In my case one burned and took the other out at the same time just fixed it last week. There was no "Check Engine Light" in my case, however I had Brake and ABS sensor lights, but I shoud have had a P0500 because of the rear ABS sensor? Anyway, there is no specs that I could find. The ABS speed sensor on the diff is like $29 bucks at Auto Zone and the speed sensor was like $23 bucks.

 

Ahhh,I thought so.I have the ABS diff sensor,from Auto Zone, p/n SU3356, the trans speed sensor is SU3156, if anyone needs it, you have the prices right on.....TY,I guess it's time to look back into the wiring at the trans.Seems likely with my symptoms. I just read the thread on the fuse panel/junction block...Should I look in there also?

 

You can look at the ABS fuse, but that should be in the PDC under the hood. The thing is, everything you're describing is a bad rear axle ABS Speed Sensor?

 

I remember, there was a member that had a problem with the wiring to the rear ABS Speed Sensor. I saw an entire wiring loom at O'Reilly. As for the trans speed sensor and wiring, well that could still be the issue because it runs on resistance, if there is an issue with the internal wiring loom well you might have to swap with one from a junker. Check for continuity on the wires to ground.

 

That what I thought,all the symptoms of the rear sensor with a no speedo and the lights,plus the hcu running.But,with you confirming that they work together I'm not surprised at all......Right now I get the feeling the damage from zip tieing the transfer case shifter to the sensor wiring took out the circut,hope it didn't damage the cab...although,if it's tripping the hcu it's kinda telling me it's working right? Time for wire diagram and the pinout...ugh...So I have it clear,your sensors ohmed out about equal to the new ones but were shot regardless?

 

No, the old ones were completely open, noda, nothin.

What I was talking about was the difference between the new sensors, not compairing the old sensors to the new. The only thing I did to the new sensors was resistance test at 20k ohm's (I think it was 20k) and I want to say they were in the 2-3 hundreds on both new sensors. The other thing I did was run a peice of metal in front to see if I got something out and I did, I think it was something like 0.8 volts A/C but I can't remember, hell this was like 1.5 weeks ago......LOL

Now something could have taken the ABS sensor out as this happened to my truck. The LS Clutch Pack Clasp broke out and was flung into the sensor shattering the sensor, but the wires were cross therefore it looked ok. Had to do a full rebuild. I say pull that sensor out and have a look at it.

Here's a link of that dreadful day: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...lp-please.html
And here was the rebuild: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...c-lok-lsd.html

 

Ok,I got ya now....I have the sensor out,that's what confused me.It looks new/newer....I did both the ohm and volt and got readings close to the new one,(tested the old and new)that's why I asked....On the LS clutch clasp...the old sensor looks fine,no marks at all so I don't think it was hit.Doesn't mean the tone ring isn't fubar but I'll drop the diff cover this weekend and see.Only asking so I don't waste $$ on a part I don't need. I'm thinking just put the new sensor in anyway,and go get the trans sensor also,it's only $50 for both and that takes them both out of the picture.If it fixes it great,if not keep looking.Unless you think I should put the old one back in...Also,1.5qt gear oil, I hear at least 7 ounce lim slip add or should I use more?

Edit,
I started looking through the wiring and the trans speed sensor.You mentioned the you tested your sensors and they were close in readings,I ohmed the trans sensor and it's nowhere near what the abs sensor ohms out at.Haven't pulled it so no a/c test yet bit I think it's fubar.Going to have a good look through the harness in the morn,and look at the diagrams more,I have a feeling it might be there with the P0500,that's stictly an abs speed sens code right?
Also,what else could make the abs hcu stay pumping? That's like the big question outside of the no speedo....
Sorry to be so long with this hydra....

 

The reason you ABS pump is constantly running is because you are getting constant power to it. This can only mean one thing; your ABS Module "Controller Antilock Brakes (CAB)" is bad and it is sending power to the pump. Unhook the module and go to a junk yard and find a match to your truck. What I mean by this is find one the same year, so:

2000, Dodge Durango, 4x4, and lastly ensure you find one with the same brake package as yours, either 2 wheels ABS (RAWL) or 4 wheel ABS system.

Engine doesn't matter and sale package (SLT, STX.....ect) doesn't matter.


You could check your grounds as well and connections, but I personally think the module is shot.

 

Thank you very much,I'm in the process of re-establishing ALL the grounds,I've found a few already that needed cleaning.Plus I'm going through the connectors for a clean up and and a little dielectric. I thought the CAB could be shot and keeping the pump on so that's next. From what I've read in the DIY (trans output sensor thread) I'm going to replace both speed sensors as a pair. TY again for the help...it's priceless
Links to the DIY thread;
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...abs-light.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ight-help.html
UPDATE;
I found a weak splice in the harness where the rear sensor goes into the harness,cleaned soldered done.Checked and re-upped a few grounds.When I pulled the sensor it had a good sized chunk of scale on it,my guess from not cleaning up the diff when they put it in.It was big enough to fool the system. I cleaned it, added a new o-ring, reinstalled...Got my speedo back,the overhead is working,gonna hit the highway and check the cruize,bet it's ok....Half of the problem SOLVED...TY again hydra
Salvage yard has a couple d's that match mine,grabbin a CAB this weekend