anyone here read this one before? http://members.rennlist.com/oil/Motor%20Oil%20101.htm

interesting read, not sure if you want to add it to the FAQ thread.

 

Overall a good read, but he forgot to mention anything about thermal expansion of internal engine parts and how the difference in clearance comes into play between startup and operating temperature.

 

He did not discuss the difference in Fully Synthetics, PAO's and Hydra-Cracked. He is compairing them as the same when they have complete different properties.

He did not mention that different viscosity weight's of oil have different additives/ratings and those additives are not for use in certain motors, simply meaning that a 15-40 oil is for diesel and has soot removing additives and others, whereas a 10w-30 has additives for gas use and blow-by. What this means is you would not want to use a 10w-30 in a diesel engine as you would not have the protection you are in need of. It goes both ways! So if a person wanted to change their oil weight of type they must first ensure that all the additives/ratings are of equal to that of the OEM type. Of course you can use a 0W-30, but again he fails to represent the all of the information needed to make that change. The simple statement of; "The rating must be SL or the upcoming SM rating." being all that is needed is simply incorrect.

Also remember that he is basing all this information off race cars and the tolerances of these engines are a lot tighter then our stream line manufactured engines. So I'm glad he put all his information in there, but that's for his, not ours. Not to mention if he brakes it he will just have it replaced, money obviously isn't an option. The funny thing is he didn't have a lab check his oil after use to see how it operated during his trials. This is a simple test and pocket change to this guy.

I do agree with a lot of his statements though. Auto Manufactures have been going to lighter oils for years now. By comparison, my 2004 Ford Taurus DOHC takes 5W-20 oil, yet it's predecessors took 5w-30 then 10w-30 as we go back in years, well at least with the SOHC version but same-same.

I do wonder if it would help the 4.7L in start up noise, hey Sharps you wanna put your engine on the line for a test???????

 

What total crap. I couldn't take it for more than 30 seconds. Never got bast the "About the Author" section. This introduction about him was frickin' hilarious"

---------
About the author:
Dr. Haas is a physician and surgeon. He graduated from the University of Florida with a degree in biochemistry with honors. He studied motor oils since high school where he did independent studies on this topic. He studied the properties of viscosity.

When he was a general surgery resident in Chapel Hill he studied the flow mechanics of human blood. Today he continues his research by discussion of oil products with chemists in the field and chemists from the oil manufacturers.

He has personal racing experience in Formula Super Vee. He is his own Lamborghini and Ferrari as well as Mercedes mechanic.
---------

Typical internet BS, "Let's toss in a bunch of crap to make the guy sound legit."

Hey! No one is going to believe this unless we say he owns a Lambo, also owns a Ferrari AND he's a Mercedes mechanic.

But wait!! He has to be a Doctor, a Surgeon, a degree with Honors and back in high school he was an auto shop nerd fixated on motor oil.

But of course! ROTFLMAO.

Just go read all you want about oil at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

IndyDurango

 

Good link Indy.I've learned more about oil from this forum than anywhere.
@hydra...right there,it's a lot easier when you don't actually live check to check paying your bills,
some good information but it's bias,all about dino.Still learned something reading it though.
Wifes last car,2000 Taurus,3.0l dohc ,10w-30,5w-30 cold climate, from the owner manual...
TSB from Ford http://www.ints.com/support/document...20motoroil.pdf

 

not saying everything you could posibly want to know about oil was there, just good reading about oil viscosity. i've had that link bookmarked for years.

 

Reading it can't hurt,I don't agree with everything he wrote but i still learned something...I read a lot so a link like that's interesting to me anyway....
Same with the link Indy put up,learn something from almost all of them.

 

The guy isn't all there as I have to agree with Indy, it didn't make any sense at all at first.

I instead found it worth the read to dig into it farther to see his legitimacy. There is some great info, but it's like he wrote it with a stick on the ground. He is very biased and one thing I found very funny was the fact he had his friend pull Fully Synthetic out and replace it with a mineral oil and not only that but change weights! How can you get any reasonable results by doing extreme changes and not even letting the oil break in let alone the engines, and no actual oil tests to back up his theories?

There were all sorts of various outlandish things that don't make sense. Now I know you can change oils and types, but again you have to know what you need and the results of those changes in chemical compounds. I have run different oil weights and types but only because the compounds I needed was no longer available.

For instance, in an boat motor I had (Mercuser 228) the manual stated to use a straight 30 weight, it was needed because of the motor needed a SE rated oil for oxidation in this marine engine, however they pulled it out of the new straight 30 and it is now obsolete, but I still needed it! Yes I know SD or SC is recommended, but does not control it like the SE would. So with that I used Diesel oil 15W-40, it was the best idea available.

What I am again getting at here is the fact one should not just go out and buy this and that because your engine will not be protected. You have to do extensive research and most people out there are not informed enough to make a decision like that.

An example to this is, a 10W-40 from 1972 is completely different to the same 10W-40 of today. THey have pulled stuff out, and put stuff in, and some of what they pulled out didn't make it back in to todays. You have the EPA now and they have screwed things up for the older lubricated machinery.

 

what am i being volunteered for now?

 

You're right hydra,way bias...I didn't get that either,specially with no testing...Like I wrote..with a grain of salt,not really sure that much of the racing stuff applies to general auto anyway....took it as a read not advice.
On the marine oil.I've been on with Tech Services in Fon du Lac arguing the changes with them....Couldn't get one single tech that's been inside an engine to see the effects of the oil they require but if DON"T use what they demand we void the clients warranty..it sucks...stupid. The raw water cooled are the worst,closed systems aren't so bad with heat exchangers regulating temp(and thernostat) but the raw water cooled are a friggin nightmare when we tear down for repairs....we have a couple repowers comming up,I'll shoot some pics of the snot and carbon inside em...As a marine mech myself...stay with what you're doing,(which I'm absolutely positive you will anyway)Unfortunately for Mercruizer you know more about it then they do....
P.S. Haven't seen a case of straight 30 Merc(or QuickSilver)here in ages...I think they forgot about about all the older v-8's out there and figure everyone can go buy a new $10,000 repower MPI
(sorry little off topic there)