1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

4WD Service light - basic troubleshooting results need feedback

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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 06:06 PM
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Default 4WD Service light - basic troubleshooting results need feedback

I am stumped!

2001 Durango 4.7 4X4. Service 4wd light on - no lights on selector dial - 4wd will NOT engage. A quick look at posts indicated the TCCM was a very common issue. I happened upon a used one at a good price and ordered before troubleshooting, figuring worse case I could re-sell or keep as a spare. Issue persisted.

Today I checked for voltage on the connector at the bottom of the transfer case. I believe this engages the shift motor. No voltage present. Pulled apart dash and check for voltage on connector feeding switch. No voltage on any wire (grounding to chassis ground) Did not have a wiring diagram.

Any ideas? We could get snow any day, and would like to have fixed!

Thanks!
 
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 06:32 PM
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Just to add....did a visual inspection of the wiring by the tcase also. Everything looks good.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 09:47 PM
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check fuse A in the PDC (its A in the 2002 year, should be the same or close in the 2001, check the lid of the PDC to be sure)


fuse 9 in the door panel should be for the lights in the switch in the dashboard


thats what i can find in the factory service manual, take a look and replace the fuses if in doubt, and then get back to us.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 12:31 AM
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If the selector isn't lighting up, then you may have an open wire or blown fuse like shrap had said. But here is some other information.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRANSFER CASE - NV244
DIAGNOSIS CHART CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Transfer case difficult to shift or will not shift into desired range. 1) Transfer case electronically controlled shift system malfunction. 1) Verify proper operation per the appropriate diagnostic manual.
2) Insufficient or incorrect lubricant. 2) Drain and refill transfer case with the correct quantity of Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid.
3) Internal transfer case components binding, worn, or damaged. 3) Repair or replace components as necessary.
Transfer case noisy in all drive modes. 1) Insufficient or incorrect lubricant. 1) Drain and refill transfer case with the correct quantity of Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid.
2) Internal transfer case components binding, worn, or damaged. 2) Repair or replace components as necessary.
Transfer case noisy while in, or jumps out of, 4LO. 1) Transfer case not completely engaged in 4LO position. 1) While rolling 2-3 MPH and the transmission in NEUTRAL, or the clutch depressed on vehicles equipped with a manual transmission, shift the transfer case to the AWD or 4HI position, and then back into the 4LO position.
2) Range fork damaged, inserts worn, or fork is binding on the shift rail. 2) Repair or replace components as necessary.
3) Low range gear worn or damaged. 3) Repair or replace components as necessary.
Lubricant leaking from transfer case seals or vent. 1) Transfer case overfilled. 1) Drain lubricant to the correct level.
2) Transfer case vent closed or restricted. 2) Clean or replace vent as necessary.
3) Transfer case seals damaged or installed incorrectly. 3) Replace suspect seal.
Transfer case will not shift through 4HI (Part-time) range. 1) Incomplete shift due to drivetrain torque load. 1) Drive in a straight line and momentarily release the accelerator pedal to complete the shift.
2) Incorrect tire pressure. 2) Correct tire pressure as necessary.
3) Excessive tire wear. 3) Correct tire condition as necessary.
4) Excessive vehicle loading. 4) Correct as necessary.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 04:05 AM
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If its the same as what happened to mine which it sounds like it is this https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-dakota/86169-2002-dakota-ctm-problem-and-fix-for-everyones-knowledge.html


 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 07:30 PM
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Due to no voltage condition I believe it is electrical, not mechanical (aside from possible shift motor).

Confirmed both fuses (in power distribution center and fuse block on drivers side dash) are good.

Opened switch - no burned contacts - all looks clean. Well, aside from the burned out backlight illumination bulb. Nice that they soldered it directly to the board. Looks like I will be breaking out the soldering iron.

As stated above, replaced TCCM with salvage yard unit.

Inspected wiring down by transfer case and re-seated connectors. No corrosion observed.

Re-seated connectos on TCM (drivers side kick panel) - no corrosion seen.

Completed a quick visual inspection of wiring in dash area (including by parking break)

Was not able to find DC voltage behind switch or at shift motor on t-case. Still looking for wiring diagram to verify wires which should have constant voltage.

SO....I am thinking TCM? Thing is most posts mentioning this as an issue also complained about other electrcal oddities associated with it. The 4wd system (service 4wd light) is the only issue I am having.

Hate to drop another $75 on a used TCM without completing troubleshooting unless the items I have check point directly to it being the issue.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 10:29 PM
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Download a 2002 Durango Factory Service Manual, it should give you all the schematics you need: http://www.mediafire.com/?2cg2hgim2zz
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 11:14 PM
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get a mutli-meter out and sit down w/ the service manual and check for power and continuity, start at the battery and make sure you get power to the fuses,

also fuses are cheap, change them anyway even if you think they are good, you have no clue how many times i have seen this solve a problem (it may not work for you, but for $2 worth of fuses who cares??)
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 07:00 PM
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Well, with wiring diagram in hand went out to my Durango to start tracking power. Turned on the ignition and wouldnt you know...everything is working perfectly.

Guess it proves the fuses were good. Looks like I need to wait until it goes out....again.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 09:14 PM
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Before you let it go until it happens again. Try this, Look up at the e-brake assy and see if there are wires coming thru the bulk head and if they are. Check the wires that coming thru the bulk head and see if they are shorting out on the brake ratchet.
 
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