Electrical problem
Electrical problem
Been trying to chase this down for some time now. Replaced all ground wires, wires from the fuse block under hood to alternator. From fuse block to battery.
From the video and sorry it is sideways, you can see how delayed the needle is going to 14 volts. It gets worse after sitting for 24 hours if I am on shift at the FD. By worse I mean, it goes up to the next tic mark or beyond past the 14 volt mark.
If it sits for a day or two and I go some where at night, when I run my lights the needle drops down and it take me reving the engine at a stop light to keep it at 14 volts.
I am assuming my battery is draining somewhere when it sits, but just cannot find where. I have disconnected my entire stereo system at the battery and that is not it.
Here is the video of the volt meter on the dash.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhNKOf3x_mE
Also, here is a pic of the fluke meter while the engine is running. This one is of the volts the alternator is putting out.
This one is of the amps.
It is a high amp alternator, so I was wondering if that amp output is enough or should I rely on the voltage output?
As I said, if it sits overnight, the needle really comes up slow. The video shows how the needle rises ALL the time now, even after I drive it for a 100 miles.
So it is slow all the time, but gets slower the longer it sits.
The alternator bench tests good at O'Riellys.
From the video and sorry it is sideways, you can see how delayed the needle is going to 14 volts. It gets worse after sitting for 24 hours if I am on shift at the FD. By worse I mean, it goes up to the next tic mark or beyond past the 14 volt mark.
If it sits for a day or two and I go some where at night, when I run my lights the needle drops down and it take me reving the engine at a stop light to keep it at 14 volts.
I am assuming my battery is draining somewhere when it sits, but just cannot find where. I have disconnected my entire stereo system at the battery and that is not it.
Here is the video of the volt meter on the dash.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhNKOf3x_mE
Also, here is a pic of the fluke meter while the engine is running. This one is of the volts the alternator is putting out.
This one is of the amps.
It is a high amp alternator, so I was wondering if that amp output is enough or should I rely on the voltage output?
As I said, if it sits overnight, the needle really comes up slow. The video shows how the needle rises ALL the time now, even after I drive it for a 100 miles.
So it is slow all the time, but gets slower the longer it sits.
The alternator bench tests good at O'Riellys.
THE ULTI-MOD
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,797
Likes: 36
From: Union NJ
i have to ask a really stupid question here so please excuse me for this but
How old is your battery? just before my last battery went out this is a very similar description of what was going on.
also try to put a good voltmeter on it while you drive to see if it fluctuates with the one in the dash or if that holds stead to eliminate the gauge as being the problem.
How old is your battery? just before my last battery went out this is a very similar description of what was going on.
also try to put a good voltmeter on it while you drive to see if it fluctuates with the one in the dash or if that holds stead to eliminate the gauge as being the problem.
Professional
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Summerset, SD
+1
At idle the voltage looks good; the current draw looks a little high if all lights, heaters, blowers, fans, etc. are off, and could indicate a bad cell in the battery. But if you consider that just a 13 watt bulb will pull an amp and electric cooling fans can pull around 20, your reading is somewhat subjective.
The first thing I would do is have the battery checked.
At idle the voltage looks good; the current draw looks a little high if all lights, heaters, blowers, fans, etc. are off, and could indicate a bad cell in the battery. But if you consider that just a 13 watt bulb will pull an amp and electric cooling fans can pull around 20, your reading is somewhat subjective.
The first thing I would do is have the battery checked.
Last edited by ZCR1; Nov 29, 2011 at 05:32 PM.
Battery is brand new. When this first started a few months back I took it back to Sams Club and they tested it. Said it was good and after I explained what was going on, they went ahead and replaced it for free and gave me a new three year warranty. So this battery is new.
I have it on a charger now (AGM setting) and will let it charge overnight. In the morning when I head to the FD to work, I will see if my dash volt meter does the same thing as in the video with the battery at full charge when i start it up.
I have it on a charger now (AGM setting) and will let it charge overnight. In the morning when I head to the FD to work, I will see if my dash volt meter does the same thing as in the video with the battery at full charge when i start it up.
Rookie
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Could be a bad batch of batteries, When I worked at advance auto we had a a recall and had to pull all of a few different sizes off the shelf so It could be you got 2 ****y ones.. Worth a shot trying a different battery on it.
Professional
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Summerset, SD
What is the resistance between your pos and neg terminals in the truck with the battery removed? This will indicate how much current draw you have in the system. (V/R=I)
Last edited by ZCR1; Nov 29, 2011 at 07:40 PM.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
It looks slightly slow, but just slightly....IMHO
The longer the battery sits (and I'm sure there is some drain on it some how) the battery lowers a slight bit, also starting the truck takes quite a bit of power. Anyway the battery is now drained slightly and so after you start it the battery is much lower than the power going into it from the alternator, so the battery sucks it up to fill in the void. Now the instrument cluster input comes from the PCM so this is inline after the battery see.
So now the alternator is running the engine electrical but through the battery then to the PCM because the power goes to the battery first as stated. So during the first few seconds there is the battery getting that drop charge replaced and there is also the capacitor powering up on the meter that you are looking at. So it takes a few seconds to registure the output that is actually being supplied by the alternator.
The other thing could be the alternator brushes aren't the best so that could be why, however my truck does the same thing and so does my boat. Once the battery is fully charged the volt meter will lower slightly.
I'm thinkin this is normal or there could be a slight alternator brush issue. To test the brushes turn on all electrical and measure the voltage output (DC). But the 13.82 is within range output as that is 13.8 - 14.2 volts DC.
The longer the battery sits (and I'm sure there is some drain on it some how) the battery lowers a slight bit, also starting the truck takes quite a bit of power. Anyway the battery is now drained slightly and so after you start it the battery is much lower than the power going into it from the alternator, so the battery sucks it up to fill in the void. Now the instrument cluster input comes from the PCM so this is inline after the battery see.
So now the alternator is running the engine electrical but through the battery then to the PCM because the power goes to the battery first as stated. So during the first few seconds there is the battery getting that drop charge replaced and there is also the capacitor powering up on the meter that you are looking at. So it takes a few seconds to registure the output that is actually being supplied by the alternator.
The other thing could be the alternator brushes aren't the best so that could be why, however my truck does the same thing and so does my boat. Once the battery is fully charged the volt meter will lower slightly.
I'm thinkin this is normal or there could be a slight alternator brush issue. To test the brushes turn on all electrical and measure the voltage output (DC). But the 13.82 is within range output as that is 13.8 - 14.2 volts DC.