Hydra, directly from your post in the Transmission sticky:

SHIFTS DELAYED OR ERRATIC (SHIFTS ALSO HARSH AT TIMES)
1. Fluid Level Low/High. 1. Correct fluid level and check for leaks if low.
2. Fluid Filter Clogged. 2. Replace filter. If filter and fluid contained clutch material or metal particles, an overhaul may be necessary. Perform lube flow test.
3. Throttle Linkage Mis-adjusted. 3. Adjust linkage as described in service section.
4. Throttle Linkage Binding. 4. Check cable for binding. Check for return to closed throttle at transmission.
5. Gearshift Linkage/Cable Mis-adjusted. 5. Adjust linkage/cable as described in service section.
6. Clutch or Servo Failure. 6. Remove valve body and air test clutch, and band servo operation. Disassemble and repair transmission as needed.
7. Governor Circuit Electrical Fault. 7. Test using DRB® scan tool and repair as required.
8. Front Band Mis-adjusted. 8. Adjust band.
9. Pump Suction Passage Leak. 9. Check for excessive foam on dipstick after normal driving. Check for loose pump bolts, defective gasket. Replace pump assembly if needed.

What pump exactly are we talking about, and am I able to access it easily when I drop the pan?

I have noticed some foam on my dipstick for about a week now and shifting hard into reverse or drive ONLY after it gets warm. I am replacing the filter and gasket this weekend and just replacing the fluid I take out when I drop the pan (about 4-5 quarts), just wanted to know if this pump (which ever it may be) is accessible when I drop the pan. Thanks in advance!

 

No you well not be able to get to pump with just the pan removed.
It's at the front of the transmission in the bell housing.

 

To actually replace the gasket, you'll have to pull the tranny and disassemble it. The only other thing you can do is try a transmission additive that the vast majority here will tell you not to use, and in most cases they're right. However, when you're faced with either pulling a transmission (or paying someone to do it for you) or the possibility of curing the problem at least temporarily by adding a bottle of TransX or Lucas Oil tranny treatment, I'd try adding the stuff to my tranny first. Neither of the two additives I mentioned would void the manufacturer's warranty, and I've never seen damage done by using them, and have actually used them myself a time or two with good results.

The decision's yours, of course, but I'd at least try the additive if it were me, and see whether it worked at all, and how long it would last. The internal leak obviously isn't that bad or it wouldn't wait until it was warmed up to start shifting hard.

 

I am thinking about maybe using the Lucas tranny treatment when I drop the pan and change the filter sunday. Honestly, I am not willing to drop the tranny and try to work on it, or pay a shop to do it. I will say this tranny has not been serviced in a while.

I did just get the truck, but I can tell you the tranny fluid is almost brown, but currently still has a little bit of a reddish tint to it. I am going to change filter and replace 4-6 quarts of fluid to the tranny and add a little bit of the tranny treatment and see what happens.

Unless someone screams otherwise!!!

 

oh no, check them out, figured I am here at the office today, not much going on and it is my last week here, sooo, why not make great use of my time?!

 

looks to me like the pan gasket is the issue there, i would replace it, and if it were me i would try to get the pan out w/o taking that off, i havnt done mine yet, but taking fewer parts off makes any job MUCH easier.

 

yeah but seems like you can't get to those bolts without it, I don't have a ujoint socket attachment to get into weird places, I am in a foul mood, heading up to advance to do some shopping and. make me feel better, maybe I will pick one up

 

I agree with sharp. No the motor mount or the crossover doesn't need to come out or removed. Here is a trick I use every day. Remove all but two bolts, So if you have 10 bolts holding the pan to the transmission. Remove 8 of them. Then with a speed wrench, yes I'm that old. Loosen the last two bolts until the fluid start draining out of the pan. This way you don't spill fluid everywhere. All also check the bands too and adjust if needed.

 

I was reading on how to adjust the bands, unfortunately I do not have a torque wrench and I can't convince the wife I REALLY need one. I swear every time I pop the hood on my truck I hear a new sound, smell a new smell, or see something new. So I went to advance bought my Advance Auto ATF+4 Fluid and my Filter and gasket (done it all before), of course I did come home with a new FREE TPS and FREE Rags, and a few other FREE things, good to know the guys. But anyways, I put on the TPS, reset the PCM. Well, I hear a clicking now, out of no where, you can hear a clicking under the hood. Sounds like it is coming from the top end of the engine just under the throttle body and can be heard and pin pointed on either side of the engine. Just had an oil change 700 miles ago. Any Ideas? No drop in oil pressure, though the NEW TPS seems to help with the RPM drop when accelerating a little bit, but only did it in park, will see tomorrow while driving to work.

 

SPEED WRENCH?! WTH?! lol just kidding if I am correct you are talking about just a normal wrench :-)