Lol i was thinking some valve and carb cleaner would work great, 7 cans later and the injector ports are still really dirty, i will try this soaking thing, if it isnt as clean as i want i have 10 gallons of purple power at my office, and it will be used wisely, thanks alot bwdakrt, you have answered a lot and i feel a lot more knowledgeable tearing apart my engine

 

No problem. I also have a small brass brush for my Dremel tool that I use for the really gummed up areas like the fuel injection ports. Spray on the Purple Power, let it soak, hit it with the brass brush...repeat if necessary. Just be sure to use the brush on the bottom side only and not on the top as you may screw up the o-ring seat.

 

Thanks bwdakrt, you've helped quite a bit, i feel alot more knowledgeable. Going to try the dunking and soaking trick then pp to get the rest, i have 10 gallons of the stuff sitting in my office lol, will let you guys know how it goes

 

Well I think you settled it, you had a Plenum leak with those pic's.


When you replace the intake put the gaskets on each side, and front and back. At this time you will notice a slight place where the gaskets come together on all 4 corners. In this area you want to put a nice 3/16 inch bead of RTV sealant down to ensure they seal as one. When you place the intake down do yourself a favor and get some 1/4" wood dowels and place and cut them about 6 inches long and place them inside each corner bolt hole and as you lower the intake you place these into the holes so when you lower the intake it sits flat down and correctly on top of the block.

What I am trying to say here is you don't wnat to slide the intake back and forth on the engine because that will cause leaks on the corners you sealed with the RTV. You want to place it correctly down on the engine the first time and not move it. Then torque the bolts in sequence as instructed in the manual. I always clean my bolts and put a slight bit of gasket sealant on the threads to aid in keeping them from backing out once torqued and the sealant drys.

Once everything is placed I would let it sit over night and finish in the morning to allow the RTV to dry. Then finish installing the TB and ect. If you remove the injectors replace the O rings before installation and I would very very light grease the ports to aid in installation.

 

Thanks Hydra.

I did replace the O-rings on the injectors, man they were a little bit of a pain to get in. I did not get this post until this morning after I already ran the truck. I put the kegger down and torqued at about 9:30-10am yesterday morning, and did not start the truck until about 7:30pm. A lot of things kept happening and I kept having to go back to the truck after doing something for someone, and I had a party to attend yesterday for my father-in-law. But I hope that was enough time to have the RTV to seal. The Kegger I did the plenum plate with Red RTV Sunday night, and it sat drying for 12 hours before I put it on and 24 hours before I started the truck. So I know that is dry, I hope.

Everything looks good and seems to be running properly. I got an OBD II scanner and Volt meter for christmas so I am now looking towards my next project, Radio and Windows.

All in all, the planum gasket repair is actually pretty easy. If you have any mechanical skill at all, and I mean the slightest amount, you could do this project.

I spanned mine over 3 days to make sure I gave myself enough time. One Day for tear down, one day for cleaning, one for putting it all back together.

I will have a write up with pictures soon

 

Looking forward to the write up. So you decided against the kegger mod then?

 

Decided against the kegger mod for now, I wanted to make sure I could get the thing put together and running before I start messing with it lol. next time I have to replace it though I will probably do the kegger mod, or heck might just decided to do it one spring and summer comes and I need something to do lol

 

I maybe should have mentioned spraying a light coat of WD40 on the new injector o-rings makes for a easier install. Sorry!

Good to hear everything worked out great for you. It's not that bad of a job just a little time consuming. Looking forward to the write up.

 

I recommend picking up a non-EGR kegger without the divider, late '98-'03, and make the kegger mod a winter project. Come spring all you'll have to do is transfer everything from your stock kegger to the modified kegger and bolt it on. A lot less down time and you can resell your intake to recoup some of your $$$.