I have a weeping freeze plug on the driver side. Unfortunately it is the one hidden behind the motor mount. The chassis service manual says that the front axle has to be removed to remove the motor mount and insulator. Does anyone have any inventive ways to avoid this level of effort? I was thinking that removing the plastic fender well or exhaust manifold in conjunction with disconnecting not entirely removing the mount and insulator might get me there.

 

be glad it wasn't one of the ones on the back of the block under the tranny bell housing like the one I had go. I've never had to change one on the side of the block, but if it's only weeping you might just be able to seal it, temporarily at least

 

Yep, there is actually 2 on the rear of the 5.2L and 5.9L motors. A smaller and a larger size.

As for the OP's question. You should be able to get to it like you are saying.

 

The motor mount would need to be removed and taking the inner fender wells, will help. Once you have remove the freeze plug, check the inside of the block by using your finger. There maybe a lot of rust inside. If there is, inspect the other freeze plugs too. Because you only want to do the job once.

 

With 200k miles on the engine I'm disposed to just pulling the engine and having it freshened top to bottom. As a last ditch delaying tactic, I tried the ultimate act of desperation, Bar's. Miracle of miracles, the leak has stopped for the time being. My luck, it will hold all the way through the summer wrenching season until next winter.

 

Watch your radator for signs of clogging / overheating after putting in the sop-leak. Hopefully it'll hold out for you....

Bob

 

yea, I consider this sort of thing a huge insult to the system, but you wind up treating an old truck a lot differently than a new one. I love my D but it owes me nothing at this point.