1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Bout to do my T/S lift.. Tips?

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  #31  
Old 01-23-2012, 01:03 AM
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Don't think that is it. I have E tires as well on my truck (they came with it) and I don't know the history of the tires, but I know they are TERRIBLY unevenly worn. Mine might be ball joints and alignment for me though :-) Count your blessing mopar, you are a lucky man...now, pass on some of that luck, I need to win 50k to rebuild my Durango (and pay off bills caused by me spending my money on my durango every weekend)
 
  #32  
Old 01-23-2012, 11:25 AM
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@lvphotos, Dodge obviously didn't have anyone lifting their D's in mind...with your
t/c 5.5" you went right passed their design, I figured you'de leave yourself some adjustment after that much work.It's a nice lift,do you like it? Was it worth the work?

I'm having mine re-aligned after.It may only be slightly out of adjustment and not noticeable driving,but it's still out. It is geometry,if you raise it you have to compensate the height increase. Tire wear may be un-noticable but regardless it's still out of alignment.
 
  #33  
Old 01-23-2012, 04:25 PM
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[QUOTE=laz45;2700789]@lvphotos, Dodge obviously didn't have anyone lifting their D's in mind...with your
t/c 5.5" you went right passed their design, I figured you'de leave yourself some adjustment after that much work.It's a nice lift,do you like it? Was it worth the work?

I not happy with it but ok with it, like I said I modified their modification. At SEMA in Nov tuff country would not talk about that lift with the guys that did the lift. They will not use another t/c lift. After all the issues they conceded that the SAS would have been the better choice. I got about 4k in lift after 3 years of abuse. I was a chase truck before the lift and wanted more clearance. Everyone likes my D its a 50/50 on paint though. Its nice to find it in other peoples videos. I spied it in Riot Racing four times and on Best In the Desert Finish in the Bilik 300. Helps to have it highly visible. I have had this truck in about every kind of terrain out there except slick rock(Moab) and haven't been disappointed. Would like more gears and locker(summer project).
Kinda like IFS for speed 4wd , rocks ok yet to drop air pressure- not need so far. On that, it takes for ever to fill 35s. The little shop compressor 1.5hp 3gal took 15min to reach 35psi from 15, good thing its a Craftsman. If you goto my Cardomain page there are pics from races and travels. LVphotos.

Shops here in LV say balljoints last 2-3yrs even on stock rigs. Not sure if thats from heat or just another secret Dodge issue. On my 2nd new set in 4yrs on lift. Thats well abused over 1000+ miles off-road. I have 130k and average around 15k a year.
 

Last edited by lvphotos; 01-23-2012 at 04:30 PM.
  #34  
Old 01-23-2012, 08:33 PM
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whichever shop told you balljoints on these rigs only last 2-3 years stock is out of there mind, they are definitely a weak point, but far from that weak, my truck is still on its 2nd set (only time they were replaced was under recall) and they are still nice and tight showing no signs of wear yet.
 
  #35  
Old 01-23-2012, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by shrpshtr325
whichever shop told you balljoints on these rigs only last 2-3 years stock is out of there mind, they are definitely a weak point, but far from that weak, my truck is still on its 2nd set (only time they were replaced was under recall) and they are still nice and tight showing no signs of wear yet.
Agreed, mine where replaced under recall to. Those had 60k on them and hadn't shown wear yet. Still on my second set, 100k so far and no issues. I think someone was lookin for a sucker to get unnecessary work done.
 
  #36  
Old 01-23-2012, 09:47 PM
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ok so heres another question, i want to run a 33in tire with a 2in hubcentric wheel spacer, i know ill have to trim a little off the front bumper.. But with the spacer do you think ill be good to clear the frame?

does any one have any pics of a rango with a t/s lift and 33s?
 
  #37  
Old 01-23-2012, 09:56 PM
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wheel spacers tend to equal trouble, id stay away fromt h em and get a set of properly offset rims if that is what you think you need.

yes 33s can be fit with the t/s and 3in bl otherwise the best you can do safely is 32s
 
  #38  
Old 01-24-2012, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by lvphotos
Like this with Tuff Country 5.5". This is why I had to modify the lift adjustment block from 1" to 3" of in/out movement. You would think the company would remedy this on there own. Pic on 33/12.50/15 stock alignment maxed camber.


That looks to be the old Tuff Country lift. Mine is the newer version and is supossed to be improved.

I had replaced my ball joints about 2 or 3 years before I had my lift installed. They are Moog and have been holding up great.

I also had my alignment done the day they finished the lift and it has held up great. Let go of the wheel and it steers in a straight line, plus no visible wear on the front tires.

I run 35" tires and also have a 3" body lift on it. I actually had the body lift on it for a few years before I had the suspension lift done.

My lift does not have the Tuff Country logo on the front of it like yours though. It didn't come with it.

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  #39  
Old 01-24-2012, 12:43 PM
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That durango looks like a tonka truck!!
 
  #40  
Old 01-24-2012, 01:55 PM
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33/12.5/15 torsion bars cranked
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...004_medium.jpg
Forklift test.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/331247...durango/page-2
My Cardomain page for more pics
Go 10.5 or 11.5 the 12.5 with or without will rub. Spacers, the right ones, cost as much as rims. Heads up if running 12.5 go with a 10" rim, having issues with the 8.5" crowning tire at 35psi so I dropped psi to 28.
The shop I deal with I have known for 20yrs so like I said it might be the desert heat. And first set at 75k with lift, then at 120k. I know I abuse them more than anyone. The shop use to keep shock mounts for my 1975 Suburban. They knew I would be in after a long trip.
 

Last edited by lvphotos; 01-24-2012 at 01:59 PM.


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