Rear Differential.
#1
01-16-2012, 11:32 AM
#2
01-17-2012, 08:49 PM
Hall Of Fame
It is actually very easy.
Take off the drive line at the rear yoke and just move to the side, also great time to check your U-joint. Now brake loose the center bolt that holds the yoke on and remove the nut. Now place a 2 finger puller on the yoke and remove it. Watch for some fluid to come out but not too much, get a large butter container or what not. Now using a large flat head screw driver or seal removal tool just pop it out, but make sure you do NOT gouge and surface of the housing, only the seal. Now there is an internal crush sleeve in there but just leave it alone.
Now take the new seal and place a light coat of grease to the outer rim of the seal. Now using a socket that fits perfectly to the middle of the seal lip set it up and smack it flat, little by little smack it in until you hear a tone change which means it is counter sunk correctly.
Now grab the yoke and clean off the seal to surface ring with some fine steal wool. Now lubricate the surface to the ring where the old seal rode on. Now gently lubricate the seal lip and slide the yoke back on being very observant to the seal surface not to tear it or gouge it.
Now raise the rear wheels off the ground and chock the front wheels. Now using a large pipe wrench as a back op tool on the outside of the yoke slowly tighten up the nut. Now hear is where it gets a little complicated.
See you need an INCH Lbs Torque Wrench to finish the job, not a regular FOOT LBS torque wrench! Now with the rear wheels off the ground, and drive line disconnected, you place the torque wrench to the bolt and turn it watching how many INCH LBS it takes to turn the nut which in turn it turns the rear wheels off the ground. See you tighten it with the normal wrench using the pipe wrench as a back up then you remove both wrenchs and use just the INCH LBS torque wrench to monitored the resistance being placed on the rear carrier. Once you get it to the specifications you are done. Now I turn it a few times and then take my reading to ensure everything has seated correctly.
DO this a few times till you get it down, then remove the nut and add Red color Lok-Tite on the nut and cinch it down to specifications.
What you are doing here is setting the pinion bearing pre-load.
Specifications:
Chrysler 9.25 Rear Differential
Pinion Bearing Preload - Original Bearings 1-2 N·m (10-20 in. lbs.)
Pinion Bearing Preload - New Bearings 1.7-4 N·m (15-35 in. lbs.)
Chrylser 8.25 Rear Differential
Pinion Bearing Preload - Original Bearings 1-2 N·m (10-20 in. lbs.)
Pinion Bearing Preload - New Bearings 1.7-4 N·m (15-35 in. lbs.)
Take off the drive line at the rear yoke and just move to the side, also great time to check your U-joint. Now brake loose the center bolt that holds the yoke on and remove the nut. Now place a 2 finger puller on the yoke and remove it. Watch for some fluid to come out but not too much, get a large butter container or what not. Now using a large flat head screw driver or seal removal tool just pop it out, but make sure you do NOT gouge and surface of the housing, only the seal. Now there is an internal crush sleeve in there but just leave it alone.
Now take the new seal and place a light coat of grease to the outer rim of the seal. Now using a socket that fits perfectly to the middle of the seal lip set it up and smack it flat, little by little smack it in until you hear a tone change which means it is counter sunk correctly.
Now grab the yoke and clean off the seal to surface ring with some fine steal wool. Now lubricate the surface to the ring where the old seal rode on. Now gently lubricate the seal lip and slide the yoke back on being very observant to the seal surface not to tear it or gouge it.
Now raise the rear wheels off the ground and chock the front wheels. Now using a large pipe wrench as a back op tool on the outside of the yoke slowly tighten up the nut. Now hear is where it gets a little complicated.
See you need an INCH Lbs Torque Wrench to finish the job, not a regular FOOT LBS torque wrench! Now with the rear wheels off the ground, and drive line disconnected, you place the torque wrench to the bolt and turn it watching how many INCH LBS it takes to turn the nut which in turn it turns the rear wheels off the ground. See you tighten it with the normal wrench using the pipe wrench as a back up then you remove both wrenchs and use just the INCH LBS torque wrench to monitored the resistance being placed on the rear carrier. Once you get it to the specifications you are done. Now I turn it a few times and then take my reading to ensure everything has seated correctly.
DO this a few times till you get it down, then remove the nut and add Red color Lok-Tite on the nut and cinch it down to specifications.
What you are doing here is setting the pinion bearing pre-load.
Specifications:
Chrysler 9.25 Rear Differential
Pinion Bearing Preload - Original Bearings 1-2 N·m (10-20 in. lbs.)
Pinion Bearing Preload - New Bearings 1.7-4 N·m (15-35 in. lbs.)
Chrylser 8.25 Rear Differential
Pinion Bearing Preload - Original Bearings 1-2 N·m (10-20 in. lbs.)
Pinion Bearing Preload - New Bearings 1.7-4 N·m (15-35 in. lbs.)