1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Air Conditioning Problems :-(

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  #11  
Old 05-04-2012 | 08:03 PM
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The back one is for the blower motor for the back half of the vehicle.
 
  #12  
Old 05-04-2012 | 08:03 PM
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It does NOT blow with heat on either.
 
  #13  
Old 05-04-2012 | 08:08 PM
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Ok. Start simple by checking the fuse. If that is good, I would take a look at the resistor. They can overheat and burn. Mine actually melted the wires that plug into it.
 
  #14  
Old 05-05-2012 | 11:21 AM
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I doubt it would be the blower resistor. If it was the BMR high speed would work fine as high speed bypasses the resistor completely. Take a look at the electrical diagnosis and testing sticky at the top of the main page here in the 1st gen section. Get a cheap meter and start testing your blower motor circuit. My guess would be the control head, blower motor, low voltage, or a bad ground. Oh and before you do any of that replace your cabin air filter. Another question, can you hear the fan working hard with little airflow if so you may also have a plugged a/c evaporator core or plugged cabin air filter. Put the fan control on max a/c to in order to bypass the cabin air filter to verify it isn't a problem.

Sorry I'm all over the place just having different thoughts pop up as I'm typing and I am a little too lazy right now to clean it up...
 

Last edited by Mean Green; 05-05-2012 at 11:25 AM.
  #15  
Old 05-05-2012 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mean Green
I doubt it would be the blower resistor. If it was the BMR high speed would work fine as high speed bypasses the resistor completely. Take a look at the electrical diagnosis and testing sticky at the top of the main page here in the 1st gen section. Get a cheap meter and start testing your blower motor circuit. My guess would be the control head, blower motor, low voltage, or a bad ground. Oh and before you do any of that replace your cabin air filter. Another question, can you hear the fan working hard with little airflow if so you may also have a plugged a/c evaporator core or plugged cabin air filter. Put the fan control on max a/c to in order to bypass the cabin air filter to verify it isn't a problem.

Sorry I'm all over the place just having different thoughts pop up as I'm typing and I am a little too lazy right now to clean it up...
Where is the cabin air filter
 
  #16  
Old 05-05-2012 | 03:09 PM
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It stopped working when I was using Max A/C, so neither Max or the regular settings work.

I have no idea how to test any of those other things.
 
  #17  
Old 05-05-2012 | 03:32 PM
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I was speaking in generalizations as I was always to lazy to replace the filter that I thought I had. LOL
Apparently there is no cabin air filter just a mesh more to keep bugs and large debris out of the hvac box.

Dakota I would say if you cannot perform the diag steps I recomend give a shop an hour to diag it or you will end up throwing parts at it unnecessrily and at a greater expense than paying for diag time. I know how type comes across on the net as well and I am not trying to sound like a jerk so don't take it that way.
 
  #18  
Old 05-05-2012 | 04:09 PM
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I wasn't going to take it that way. Lol. I am well aware that I'm not qualified to do this stuff! I can change the oil, and most filters, but this is too advanced for me!

Thanks for all your help guys! I checked the fuses. They looked fine, but I replaced them anyways - no change in the current non-functioning condition. I'm going to put a new resistor in it and see if that's what it is (since it's relatively cheap). Will update you guys when I do that.
 
  #19  
Old 05-05-2012 | 04:16 PM
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Ok just checked to see if at least I could get air out of the rear vents. Those DO blow air. Does this mean that it is in fact the resistor? I hadn't tried those yet to see if they even worked. They blow out nice cold air. :-)
 
  #20  
Old 05-05-2012 | 06:59 PM
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I will try to help you go through it without the meter it just makes it harder. You need a good length of wire. One end needs to be secured to a good ground (ground is going to be the negative post on the battery which is your best ground by far, bare metal that ultimately goes to the frame, or a stud that has a bunch of wires connected to it)
With the other end disconnect the BMR and put the wire on the solid dark blue/yellow stripe wire to complete the circuit. If the fan comes on you can eliminate the blower as a problem, if it doesn't come on you can eliminate the control head. To check just the BMR use a jumper wire between the dark blue/yellow wire again to any of the other wires that come out of that connector to the BMR. Let me know what you find. I am not typically online during the week I can only take being a mechanic 8 hours a day :P
 


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