1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

high rpms after replacing radiator

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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 10:09 PM
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Default high rpms after replacing radiator

I just to radiator go, so I ended up replacing the radiator, fan clutch, thermostat and housing, and upper and lower hoses.

The engine seems to be slow on shifts and is noticable louder as the engine sounds like the rpms are really high.

Does the PCM or something else need to recogize the new equipment/performance? When i first got it back the engine reved high on start-up and shifted into gear hard. That seems to be better, but the engine still sounds like its screaming as I drive.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 10:34 PM
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For what you have replaced will not have anything to do with the PMC box that I would know of cause there is no elc hookups for em,, But if you put a new clutch fan on it then that could be the diff an mite have to get use to it,, But I don't think any of this will have anything to do whith the way it shifting,,
 

Last edited by Russ50; Jul 20, 2012 at 10:44 PM.
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 11:54 PM
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what fan clutch did you use
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by topdogcustoms
what fan clutch did you use
I called the shop on the fan clutch - they didn't seem to think that would be the case or that there were options.

One point they brought up was maybe some trans fluid was loss while the lines were removed. I'm going to check the level while I'm out and about today.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 01:11 PM
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Trans fluid temp full when at temp as far as I can tell.

I guess I should inlude a bit of history to show a timeline in case something pops up to anyone reading this:
  1. Jun-09, 107K, replace thermostat and fluid
  2. Nov-09, 109K, shop rebuilt radiator w/plastic side tanks.
  3. Apr-11, 120K, replaced drive belt. Shop recommended belt tensioner and fan clutch - no money, so didn't do.
  4. Jul-12, 132K, noticed upper hose leaking. I replaced hose on Saturday, added fluid in hose but didn't open vent nut to purge air.
  5. Drove over weekend no problems - radiator split at plastic tank 5 minutes in drive to work early Monday morning.
  6. Shop installed new radiator - aluminum with plastic tank, fan clutch, thermostat and housing, lower radiator hose.
  7. Got truck back, seems to start up with high rpms, shift into gear a little hard, and sounds louder with higher rpms and delayed up-shifts while driving.
  8. Checked trans fluid but seems to be full.
Before I take back to shop, can anyone see any possible solutions? Does the belt tensioner play any part in this? I did switch shops with this repair because I lost faith in the shop I had been using for years. They be right on the fan clutch and tensioner, but I seems the re-built radiator wasn't a good choice.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 01:54 PM
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What was wrong with the radiator to begin with? It's possible that the bad radiator could have caused the coolant to mixed with the trans fluid, depending on where the radiator was damaged. Make sure there's no coolant in your trans. Also, does your heat work properly and does the vehicle warm up to operating temp properly? Could have air in the system due to them not bleeding it correctly.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 03:05 PM
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The thermostat was replaced in 2009 after cooling system started to leak (don't remember where) and overheat in a summertime off-road trip. There wasn't a breakage a couple months later to make me fix the radiator, I think I was just trying to pay attention to make sure there wasn't any leaks and must have noticed the radiator leak.


Regarding Transmisson repairs:
  1. Jul-07, 86k, trans fluild replaced
  2. Dec-07, 91K, new transmission oil pressure switch, speed sensor switch, new fluid.
  3. Oct-08, 99K, new line pressure sensor and shift shaft seal, fluid.
Heat works great except for rear - blend door probably stuck as that was corrected once but primarly use AC year round here in PHX.

From what I can tell I would say truck gets up to temp in time - guage at half way in 15 miles.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 11:15 PM
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Be sure to try an see if maybe the shop mite have pop off a vac line someplace cause that could make the rpm's go high too,,,
 
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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+1

Also could be a bad coolant sensor.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 07:06 PM
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Took truck back to shop to check on everyone's suggestions - here's what the responses were:
  • no mix of coolant/anti-freeze
  • didn't see a vac line not connected and mentioned that truck "wasn't hesitating"
  • trans fluid level good
  • coolant sensor good and there wasn't any code sent
I know it like tough to explain something about your car to someone else - especially if the vehicle is actually running right. I've been driving the truck for 5 years/50,000 miles now and just don't rememeber it taking so long riding the shifts out and being so loud - it just seems like there's another fan up there.

The only thing I can think is that the fan clutch was always bad or I'm hearing a fan run now more than it was before. The rpms don't seem to be high and shifting is good - maybe I'll bring it to a trans shop to get their opinion and replace fluid since its been 30k.

One thing that for sure is better - A/C now works when I'm stopped at a light or parked. My wife hated it when the cold air stopped when I stopped, and the new fan clutch may be providing more air flow/torque which is helping the A/C.
 
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