I was experiencing a slight squeak at the rear of my 03 Durango when turning. It was not really a squeak, but more like when you run your finger hard across a balloon. My buddy suggested I check the fluid level in the rear differential, but it seemed fine. I have 52,000 miles on the truck so decided to charge the rear differential fluid. I read on this forum how to do this and all went well, no problems. I went with Royal Purple 75/140. The noise is now gone and seemed to improve performance as well! I happy with the results.

Now I'm thinking I should do the front, but don't want to go through the hassle of taking off the cover, cleaning, re-sealing...etc. I have an oil extractor I bought to change the oil in my boat. I use the extractor to take the oil from engine through the dip stick tube. Works pretty well for that application.

So...my question is, do you think it feasible to use this device to remove the old fluid from the front differential? I don't use 4 wheel drive that much so I don't think I really need to inspect the gears? Maybe I should? I'll simply extract the fluid from the front differential and replace with new Royal Purple 75/90.

I look forward to hearing ideas.

03 Durango 4.7

 

yes you can do that just fine as long as you are having no problems with the 4wd or the front half of the driveline. happy pumping.

 

Thanks shrpshtr325 for confirming this would be acceptable! Actually did this last night, took me all of 30 minutes. I think I got most of the old fluid out as it looked like 1 1/2 quarts came out. I just reversed the lines on the pump and pumped the new fluid in until it started coming out of the fill hole. Super easy!

Here's the steps in case anyone is interested. Below is an image of the type of pump I used. At $15.00 it was worth it.



1. Remove rubber fill cap from differential cover.
2. Insert the small suction end of the tube into fill hole until the tube reaches bottom. This takes some maneuvering to get past the gears.
3. Place larger evacuation tube on the other end of the pump into a catch can.
4. Start pumping until you remove all the fluid. You'll hear the pump start to suck air, this will let you know when you're done.
5. Remove the suction tube from fill hold. Continue pumping to purge the remaining fluid from the pump.
6. Reverse the tubes. Place the small suction tube into the new fluid container and the larger tube into the fill hole.
7. Pump the new fluid into the differential until it comes out the hole.
8. You're done!! Replace the cap and test drive in 4X4 to work the fluid into the gears.

 

Most of the time I just pump the front because it is simply just a gear box moving for the most part. Unless 4X4 is used a lot or the truck it AWD, or if other issues are apparent. If they are then I would drop the front cover and do an inspection.

75W-140 is to heavy as I would only use 75W-90 and that is what the manual specifies. If anything I would only use 75W-140 in a heavy duty rear end like my 2500 Ram (Dana 70) that I tow very heavy all the time. I don't think there is enough capasity in the 9.25 and 8.25 Chrysler Coprporate rear differential or both of the the smaller front differentials of the Durango. My Ram take like 2.5 more capacity or so then yours!

The way they came factory was that if the tow package was installed then the Fully Synthetic version of the 80W-90 was used, which is the 75W-90 Fully Synthetic gear oil, and without the tow package was 80W-90 conventional. So I would just use the 75W-90 regardless and be rest assured.

As for spending the top dollar on Royal Purple, well do what you want, but I use Mobil One Fully Synthetic LS and it has the same base oil for 1/2 the price, and 70% of NASCAR uses it to. But each to their own!

 

Hydra you mentioned 75-90 fully synthetic for Durango's with the factory installed tow package. That is what mine is equipped with. What does the front differential require? I'm away from the house right now and everything I have printed out is there but I plan on making Mobil some money the next few days while I have access to a lift. Also Transfer case etc etc. If a VIN will help let me know.
Cheers!

 

Both front ends in the Durango use 80W-90 conventional, but you can use 75W-90 Fully Synthetic as well. I would just use the Fully Synthetic.

T-case uses ATF+4 about 2 quarts if I recall, and I would use Valvoline Fully Synthetic ATF+4. Get one of those cheap funnels that attach to the top of the quart bottles that moves around and is corrugated to get the fluid back into the T-case, trust me you will need it!!!!

 

How much fluid is needed for a 100% refill in Front D, Rear D,and T-case

 

Depends on which set up you have, and each one is slightly larger or smaller, but in a nut shell this should cover just about any set up in the 1st generation Durango's;

You should get about 2.5 quarts for the rear axles. So get 3 quarts. You should also get at least 5oz Friction Modifier and install it first if you have a Limited Slip Rear Differential. Now I use 7oz regardless, but the manual sates only 5oz, but it doesn't come that way, only in 4oz containers, or you can buy a single 7oz container at Auto Zone for around $6. I just pour in the whole 7oz bottle then install the fluid to about 1/4 lower to the bottom of the fill plug.

You need about 2 quarts for the front axles. Then install the fluid to about 1/4 lower to the bottom of the fill plug.

And about 1.5 quarts ATF+4 in the T-case. So get 2 quarts. Then install the fluid to about 1/4 lower to the bottom of the fill plug.

Trans is about 6-8 quarts ATF+4 for a fluid and filter. DO NOT OVERFILL!!!!

 

Good information.....I'm not sure if it's just me or if the Mobile1 made that much of a difference but it just seems like my D travels better since the change to synthetic,I did both diff's. The ONLY thing I did that different is I picked new diff plugs from my local dealer. I thought about extracting the old gear oil but I had no way to tell when they were serviced last so I wanted to reseal the covers while I was in there, plus I got a little scale out from when the p/o changed the speed sensor my little pump would have clogged

 

Laz45,

I too noticed an increase in performance after changing all the fluids in the drive line. I changed the fluids in both differentials, transmission fluid and filters (2 of them, never knew) as well as the transfer case. My D seems to have a LOT more torque and smoother shifting throughout the range. Seems to have more HP as well, but not sure if that's possible? Might be the increase in torque I'm feeling?

I tow a 3,000 lbs boat on the weekends. Always tow with O/D off. Before the fluid change the D had a tough time navigating the hills here in western PA. The transmission just wouldn't downshift to compensate for change in grade and acceleration was slow. I had to floor the throttle to get it to downshift or shift manually.

After changing the fluids I noticed the transmission shifting much sooner and holding gears longer when climbing steep grades. It's a pleasure towing now knowing the D will do its job flawlessly. I can even set cruise control and it will do the job beautifully. I increased my mpg's as well. 107 mile back road trip a month ago, before the fluid change, I got 16 mpg towing. This past weekend, I got 19 mpg.

I think the next step for me is to change the plugs. I've read here that our trucks like regular champion spark plugs. Just not sure if I should go with the regular truck plugs for $2.00 each or upgrade to the Platinum for $6.00 each? Does anyone have an opinion on this?

"03" Durango 4.7, 545RFE
53,000 miles