1998 Durango will only start if you shift from park to neutral so im pretty sure its the switch. I went underneath and I do not see how to remove the wire harness from the switch, or how to have enough room to remove the switch with a socket or wrench. Any tips or suggestions?

 

There's a little tap you press down on at the top of the connector facing the floor of the truck... press that down and it pulls strait out..

the NSS is a 1" socket FYI... Also, check the plug and wires for melting and/or burning... mine quit working and come to find the plug and wires where melted!

Also check to see if the shift cable is out of adjustment...


Gearshift Adjustment Procedure

(1) Shift transmission into Park.
(2) Release cable adjuster lock (underneath the
power brake booster) (Fig. 249) to unlock cable.
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Slide cable eyelet off transmission shift lever.
(5) Verify transmission shift lever is in Park
detent by moving lever fully rearward. Last rearward
detent is Park position.
(6) Verify positive engagement of transmission
park lock by attempting to rotate propeller shaft.
Shaft will not rotate when park lock is engaged.
(7) Slide cable eyelet onto transmission shift lever.
(8) Lower vehicle and check engine starting.
Engine should start only in Park and Neutral.
(9) Lock shift cable by pressing cable adjuster
clamp down until it snaps into place.


Section 21-95 of the 98 FSM, theres a good pic in there too.....

you can find the FSM here ----> http://www.mediafire.com/?xu9h0gt9bdcn6#53f6w4a6wme00

 

Removing the switch isn't that bad. Just a 1 inch socket and a ratchet. The harness can be a PITA though. As old school said be site wires aren't melted. Mine were and could only start in neutral and reverse lights kept blowing the fuse

 

Also, as i just remembered..... when you pull the NSS out have a small container handy as you will loose a little bit of fluid...

 

Thanks guys the tab on the switch was facing the ground so im assuming someone played with it already. I did get it out cleaned it, but I was still getting the same click. I pulled the starter, even though the old starter tested good it was bad. Replaced the starter and fires up every time now. Thank you guys.

 

Glad we could help in getting it fixed...

 

About that 1"; socket....any issue getting it on? The only 1" deep socket I could find locally was a 1" drive from Auto Zone, and I just can't seem to get it on there. Not sure if it's the wall thickness or that there's a pretty pronounced ramp in the 'muzzle' before the socket portion begin. Before I take a grinder to this thing, does it require a thin-wall socket? Thanks.

 

When i replaced mine i bought my socket at autozone with the switch... I t was a deep-well socket and fit on like a glove..

 

Hmm, thanks for the sanity check. Maybe there's some crud lodged in there, between the switch and the trans housing....something is keeping it from seating.

 

You could use a closed end tube wrench (which has an opening to slide the wire through) if you have one and it makes the replacement easy. But then again I might be speaking dumb **** and out of the box.....LOL