Hi guys,
I've been looking around the forum at transmission problems and troubleshooting steps, but nobody seems to be having exactly the same problems I am so I thought I'd post.
I have a 2001 Durango with the 5.9 liter engine and the 46RE trans. It's a 4WD and had the towing package (trans cooler) from the factory. I bought it with about 80,000 miles on it. (It has 155,000 now) When I got it, it seemed like the torque converter wasn't locking up quite right. Especially when climbing a hill I could watch the tach and see the RPM jumping up by about 200 every once in a while. I had the transmission fluid flushed and replaced and it seemed like it would stop slipping for a while, but then the slippage would come back after 5,000 miles or so. After another round of that (another flush, then the problem came back after about 5,000 mi.) it started throwing a check engine light with a 1740 code. I took it to a shop, they recommended replacing the O/D lockup solenoid and drilling out an orifice in some plate that has to do with letting extra pressure through to the torque converter when it is supposed to lock up...? (it's been a couple of years now so I'm fuzzy on the specifics). That didn't really help, the trans kept surging in overdrive, but it was livable. A few months ago it started having a lot more issues. It would want to start from a dead stop in second gear unless I brought it to a dead stop, shifted into neutral, took my foot off the brake, stepped back on the brake, then shifted into first. If I did that it would shift into first pretty much every time. After I started out I could move the shift lever back to O/D and everything would shift normally. On really cold mornings (0 F or below) it would also seem like it was slipping when I put it in reverse. I could put it in reverse and the truck wouldn't move for about 5 - 10 seconds, then it would start moving and reverse would work normally. I took it to a different shop (across the country - I had it fixed right before a cross-country move) and had the fluid flushed again. I got the codes from the shop, they said it had triggered a 1740 and a 1757. They had reset the codes but the check engine light came on again after I had driven it only a couple of hundred miles. It started doing the same things - wanting to start in second, and waiting a few seconds to engage in reverse - during that trip (1500 miles or so), so I took it back to the shop. The guy at the shop kept it for about four days, then brought in a transmission guy who said the fluid was burned, there was clutch material on the dipstick, and I would need a rebuilt transmission. I had seen on here that there is a governor pressure sensor and solenoid set that will trigger the 1757 if it gets some debris in it. I asked the guy at the shop about replacing those, but he said with the amount of clutch material floating around in the transmission it would be a waste of time because the sensor would just clog up again pretty much immediately. He is telling me I need a new/rebuilt transmission. He pulled the dipstick and showed me the debris in the oil and the burnt smell. There was definitely some kind dark grayish residue in the oil, and the oil smelled funny (kind of like those cheap vinyl halloween costumes if that helps). I guess I'm just a little skeptical that I need a new trans if I can get it to start in first it has no slippage, and even starting in second isn't really that bad because it pulls strong. I have to give it more gas, but it still pulls really strong. The mechanic is pointing to the slippage in reverse and saying that means my clutch packs are chewing themselves up, but it engages so well after the "slippage" it makes me wonder if it could really be going bad. I got it out of there and I probably need to take it to another shop to get another opinion, but I thought I'd see what you guys thought.
Thanks in advance for any info!

 

The P1740 is a torque converter lock up problem, And it could be a sealing problem or the torque converter. The P1757 which is a governor code. Easy test for this, drive and come to a stop. does the transmission shift inti 1st gear? If it doesn't, move the shift level into low gear. Does the transmission go into 1st gear. If it does, replace the governor sensor and transducer. If it doesn't, replace the valve body. I do have the PDF files for all these codes. If you need them, Send me a pm with your email address.

 

I would do as Mastertech suggested first but i will also say that i just went though the same things.... came up with a few temp fixes but in the end i ended up replacing the valve body. You can reman ones on ebay for about $250 bucks kinda salty in price but alot cheaper than a $2000 rebuilt i was quoted. HTH

 

Sounds great. To answer Mastertech's question, it won't go into first at a dead stop unless I shift into park first. If I shift into park then down into first it will engage first gear like a champ. Is the valve body swap pretty involved?
Thanks again for the info, guys. I get the feeling like these guys want to treat the transmission like a magic box - if it doesn't work don't try to fix it, just find an excuse to replace it…

 

Here is a video on how to replace the gov pressure solenoid/transducer but, he does a good job explaining how to take down the valve body also. I did it myself and didnt think it was as scary as its made up to be but, i dunno what your skill level is.. you should be able to look at the video and tell if its a job for you.

 

That doesn't look too difficult, but working under the truck vs. on a bench is always a different story. I can imagine those safety glasses come in pretty handy. It sounds like I could probably start with the governor sensor and transducer and go from there.

 

I would also check you band adjustment while the pan is off since the adjustment for the rear band requires the pan to be dropped.

 

Sounds good! I'll let you guys know what I come up with.

 

I thought I'd better post to let everybody know what I ended up doing. I got sent out of town for work and I didn't want my wife to get stranded while I was gone so I took it to a shop to get rebuilt. The guy did the job for $1800, way better than the $2400 I got quoted by another shop. It runs great, but there's something that has always bugged me about this tranny and the rebuild didn't do anything to change it. The shifts bother me. It seems like the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are normal (the engine revs up to 2200 rpm or so before shifting), but the 3-4 and TC lockup both happen within 500 rpm or so after the 2-3 shift. I think it is shifting into 4/TC lockup way too soon. I wondered if anybody else's does this, or if it's just mine. It seems like this could contribute to early failure of the trans as much as anything. Just thought I'd ask. Thanks again for all the suggestions!

 

$1800 is a fair price for a rebuild.. When i needed mine rebuilt i was quoted $1000 just for the rebuild and i would be responsible for removal and installation. Just for giggles i called the dealer and was quoted $3400, that included everything but the lube..lol

as far as your question, i never really take notice what mine does usually but, that sounds about right.. master tech would be the one to confirm this.