Thanks Old_School. I will be contacting them.

 

Ok I found a performance rebuild kit with an upgraded torque converter and shift kit for $730 from here http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm. So I'm gonna do that plus new solenoids including a HD governor pressure solenoid from borg-warner. Total is approaching $1200 in parts/fluids. It should be worth it though

 

That Transgo shift kit would be a winner if there isn't a kit included in your set up. What fluid are you going with, Valvoline ATF+4 Fully Synthetic?

Also get a new cooler and radiator or at least have them back and forward flushed, and pull that check valve out of the transmission line. You don't want that slowing or stopping supply.

 

Hey Hydra, glad to see ya. Its been a while now.

Well the kit comes with a fairbanks transaction shift kit, I am gonna flush the tranny cooler and remove the stupid check valve (IIRC there is a thread somewhere in the diy sticky on this). I was and will continue to use the valvoline atf+4 fully synthetic, I love that stuff. Oh also the fluid that was in it at the time of failure had 15k miles on it and it was solid purple with silver streaking. I also could see little tiny metal flakes and the magnet was coated like 1/4" thick to a dome shape even though its a donut. I forgot to mention I chose 1800rpm stall on my new tc. Didn't want it to high, otherwise it would have been not very good for a DD or towing.

 

Here is the description of the kit I bought "#K46-2. Fits 1990 - 2002 Dodge gas transmissions. Turn your 518 / 46RH / 46RE transmission into our level 2 Viper transmission with this Combo Kit and receive a large discount for buying in quantity. You get the Alto Red Eagle master rebuild kit, #BHP, Carbon intermediate flex band, Fairbanks TransAction kit, heavy duty Superior low / reverse servo, heavy duty intermediate band apply strut and a #6D heavy duty lock-up torque converter. Regular Price $805.00, Combo Kit Price $726.00, you save 9.8%." This is before shipping. Also got a trans temp gauge that the sender doubles as a drain plug.

 

Yea it's been a while but I finally got all my moves completed, bought a house and actually have high speed internet now! Still have a lot on my plate to find time quite yet, but I shall return.


Sounds like your going to have a massive clean up on your hands. There is no way I would ever reuse a torque converter, especially after a failure like that. It only takes a few metal flakes in the system to hang up your solenoids or cause damage.

I think I was one of the people involved with that check valve talk. If I remember it is on the pressure line. Look where the rubber transmission lines meets the metal lines just under about the engine fan. One will connect right together, the other connection will look a little more beefy, again right at the connection. The beefy one you’re now looking at right in the middle is the transmission anti-drain back valve.

So at this point you can remove it, however you might not be able to bolt them back together, but don't worry! Now take the rubber line off and take it to your local hose shop with any connections. They can crimp you on a new piece of rubber hose and fix that connection issue up for about $15 bucks. Now some parts stores are starting to do this as well, like NAPA and I just saw a CARQUEST last night that rebuilds hoses. Besides those connections like to leak, so you might as well get a new hose and crimp job.

Just as a reminder however for anyone that does this modification, when you first start your truck (mainly cold start) make sure you place it in gear and wait a few seconds before you move it. The reason why is because you remove this little PITA valve, well it could possibly drain fluid back into the pan, and it will need to prime lines first. The 44RE-47RE era transmissions won't pump unless you pull the shifter out of park or unless the transmission has been modified.

Have fun!

 

Here is what you are looking for...




If you lay down in front of the truck, you will see a plastic cover (or should be) just under the bottom of the bumper... remove that cover and look to the left side ... you can't miss it.

As for the lines, I went to the local Autozone and bought two 8' sections of metal lines they cost me about $6.Then i went to Harbor Freight and bought a flaring tool for under $20. I laid out the old lines and bent them exactly as the OEM ones where. Now i have solid metal lines all though the system...

I also added a second remote filter. All Puralator oil filters have a anti-check valve built in.. so i added that as a check valve... now i will still let it idle in neutral for a few seconds out of habit tho...

 

Yeah, nice to see you back hydra.

 

Thanks,

Yep that be the puppy. It's been a long time since I've seen one so going off the old brain pictures. I don't quite know if I would have gone straight metal pipe however, but I don't know if it would hurt either?

 

Well my lines are sweating with drips on them anyways so I may as well get a new ones and modify the one to take out that check valve. Yeah I bough like 8 big cans of brake parts cleaner and I'm not sure if that will be enough . After that catastrophic of a failure like that a very thorough cleaning and close inspection with as many new parts as needed is the main concern of this build. Hence the new solenoids, tc, and clutches/seals. I'm just glad the t-case is separate. I really hope my pump is fine, tbd.