I am a truck driver Gear head computer guru that used to go mtn biking a lot before i had a bad car accident that screwed up my knees lol anyways i have been looking all over the place maybe i have not searched the right keyword or read enough redundant posts but i need a straight answer my brother and i are rebuilding the front end on my durango 2 questions 1: does the steering box need to come out just to change the pitman arm yes its 4x4 and yes its bad 150k+miles anyway that was the first one
secondly: my torsion bars seem to be wore out from what i understand if i torque them up to get some lift (get frame off bumper stops) that will throw camber and toe off if this is true then is buying torsion bar keys a quick and simple fix to get some extra life out of this truck i wouldn't consider using this truck but my 09 charger scared the crap outa me last winter (i live in the upper penninsula of michigan) and its only got 70k on the motor and tranny and the body will survive a few more winters (until i can trade in the charger for an awd challenger) lol so again will this work how do torsion bar keys work i presume they make it so you can tighten the torsion bar without throwing off everything else???

 

Welcome to DF! What year is your Durango so I can move this to the appropriate technical section?

 

Shouldn't have to pull the steering box to replace pitman arm.... (*shouldn't*)

You should also be able to crank up the torsion bars, but then, go get an alignment. Shop will tell you if they can't get the front end into correct spec.

 

It's a '98 slt 5.2

 

Ok testing my new sig

 

0) Welcome.
1) Every 'bad' pitman arm I have ever seen was in two pieces. Whats bad about yours?
2) If the weak torsion bars have caused the front end to sag, and you crank them up to the OEM ride height (assuming thats what you mean by 'lift'), the geometry should be back to somewhat normal too. But as was said, get it aligned.

 

Ahh the rebuild of a front end. I did mine. Best $1,500. Durango takes corners better than my new fusion.

Can't help you on the questions. I just buy the parts and pay my mechanic to deal with the ordeal.

 

a big hint on torsion bars. one time i cranked the adjuster bolt to bottom out. then the shock bushings stated pounding out. this was on a 1959 plymouth with a chrysler 392 hemi engine. this showed me that the torsion bars have to be made for the weight. just what happened to me.

 

Pitman and idler arms are Very sloppy bushings are pretty much gone....... my ole man is the one with knowledge my brother n i just know how to do it not always diagnose it especially suspension n electrical now engine n drive train i can do all day long lol..