I opened up my 99 Durango rear end to change fluid and found some small metal pieces in the bottom of the housing. It didn't have any noises or vibrations, so I do not know what these pieces are. I looked at a parts diagram, but still can't make out what they are. I am posting a pic in hopes that someone can help me. One of the pieces is pretty decent size and it looks cylindrical. I really don't want to put it back together before finding out what I am dealing with. Thanks.

 

Start saving your coins now because you going to need differential work in the very near future is what your dealing with. Personally, i would quit driving it and have it towed to a shop that will work on real differentials and let them say whats about to fail before your driving in the middle of BFE with your family and the thing granades on ya.

just my 2 cents, i wish you luck.

 

Get a price on the differential carrier. I agree don't drive until you are ready to repair the differential.

 

i have a 2001 dak` and put a posi and 4.10 gear in. mine is a 8 1/4. 4.10 gear motivegear C8.25-4.10. dana/spicer locker 84852. install kit DRK303B. 75W90 synthetic gear lube VV975. was done 2 years ago. i might have payed to much $1,600. but am happy

 

Those are just the pins that hold the clutch packs together on the LSD. You can drive it, and it won't "grenade" on you, but you will still end up replacing the gears if you continue to drive it. However it's easy and cheap to fix your problem if you have some basic knowledge. If you are willing to tackle it yourself, let me know. I can give a slight walk through, but guarantee nothing. I agree with the others, quit driving it until you fix it, but you can fix it your self for under 40 including new fluid and a few hours time. Otherwise your likely looking at good coin to get a diff shop to do it

Edit: I speak from experience as the first Durango my buddy had, had these pieces sitting in the bottom of his diff as well. We tore the diff apart, took apart the gears and found out they were the clips that hold the LSD clutch packs together. Super easy and cheap fix

 

Yes, please tell me how you fixed this for $40. I am very capable. I work on cars all the time. I have never worked on an LSD diff before now. Even the clutch pack to rebuild the carrier is $65 or more everywhere I have looked. I am very interested to hear what you did. I don't really want to rebuild the whole thing, but I will if I absolutely have to. Thanks.

 

THIS IS NOT A WALK THROUGH, THIS IS JUST WHAT I CAN REMEMBER OFF THE TOP OF MY HEAD FROM MY ONE AND ONLY TIME OF TAKING THE DIFF APART OVER A YEAR AGO. THIS SHOULD NOT BE USED AS A WALK THROUGH, BUT MORE OF A GUIDE. USE THIS INFORMATION TO YOU OWN DISCRETION. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY MISHAPS, MISTAKES, OR DAMAGE DONE IN THE PROCESS

I had a bit of trouble where I am, but I went around to diff shops until I found one that was willing to sell me the clips, and just the clips. I took one of the olds ones with me in order to match it. Once I got the clips, it was all a matter:

1. Jack up the truck
2. Drop the rear driveshaft at the diff
3. Take the back tires off
4. Drain diff fluid
5. Remove diff cover
6. Unbolt the u-clamps that help hold the axles, and gears in place (one per axle, two in total)
6. With a helper, push on the axles, one at a time, and remove the pin inside the gearing that holds the axles in, the pull the axle out.
7. Undo pinion bolt
8. Remove gears and place on a bench or suitable work area

I may be missing a step or two in there as I cannot remember fully how I did it. Once you get the gears out, you should be able to figure out from there what to do to get them apart and get the clutch packs out to put in new clips. Just be sure the clutch packs go back in the EXACT way they came out otherwise you will have limited slip problems. If you have any more questions, just ask, I'll do my best to try to remember how I did it.

 

Thanks for the info. I am very mechanically inclined, so I have no problem doing the work. So, you just replaced the clips? You can buy supposedly upgraded heavier clips from the dealer. They are also reluctant to sell them, but they do have them. I don't really want to go that route. If I were to go as far as pulling the whole carrier out, I would just replace it with an aftermarket one that doesn't have these issues. Thanks for all the input from everyone. I really appreciate it. This is a great forum with great people.

 

So, for all out there having this problem, this is what I am doing. I am not telling anyone else to do this, so if you do, I am not responsible for any damages or liabilities and you should be prepared in case you break down! I pulled all the clips out. Broke them all up, cleaned out rear end really well and pulled them all out! Now, I know this will cause the clutches to eat at the carrier housing, but I don't care. I am going to drive it till the next fluid change and by then I will know which carrier I want to replace the stock one with. I have read a few posts from others saying they went over 20,000 miles like this with no issues and opened it up and changed the fluid and the carrier was worn. I am prepared no matter what happens to it. I have the means, equipment and tools to fix what issues arise. So, if you don't then don't try this! I will report back after whatever outcome I end up with and let everyone know how things went. Consider me the experiment. Thanks to everyone again for all the advice. Oh, I forgot, I have it all back together and have test driven it and all is working great so far. No noises or vibrations.

 

Glad you got it on the road. I too do not advise what you did, cuz like you said, it will eat at the carrier housing. But ultimately you won't notice a difference in how it drives. It won't blow up on you like that either