Ok im tired of being ripped off by shops and they don't fix sh*t

so now, yesterday my beloved (durango 2001 4.7 2rwd) stalled and wont turn on again (a week after took it to the shop for the same reason), tried and tried with no avail, there was some noise and couldn't hear the pump buzzing (but im almost sure it wasnt working at that time cause when i close my door i always hear the buzz even in the city, but i think not yesterday, i open the switch several times but didnt hear the pump ..... maybe was too noisy or i was too angry, not sure..... i was in the middle of the street with 20 cars behind)

but this morning it just started like nothing , yesterday even after trying over and over, and wait for an hour and try again and didnt start ..................... can this be a fuel pump problem .... does fuel pumps do this when old or damaged? or something ? (it whines a little when working) i have half tank so it wasn't fuel related and my battery is good (its tested)

anyway my d have lots of troubles this is a listing of some
-HEADLIGHTS SWITCH GETS REALLY HOT AND RED CABLE TO BCM HAS MELTED THE WHITE CONNECTOR
-HORRIBLE GAS MILEAGE AND I MEAN HORRIBLE LIKE 4.5 MILES PER GALLON
-OIL PRESSURE GAUGE, GOOD ON START BUT GO DOWN WHEN HOT (SAME BEHAVIOR WITH 10-30 AND 20-50 OIL)
- P0601 (I HAD THIS FOR 2 YEARS WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS, THEY STARTED RECENTLY)
-RANDOMLY STALLS RUNNING, OR TURNING, OR STOPPING, OR BY LETTING OFF GAS PEDAL .......... BUT VERY RANDOM
-RANDOM BAD IDLE AND RANDOM MISFIRES (sometimes i turn it on and idle is very very bad like out of timing or the sort but is really random had it like 3 times only this month) can this be a crank sensor? or o2? or where this symptom points at??
-RANDOM COMES AND GOES P0108 (map sensor, i think the stalls are from here but always turn on again immediately ....... but not yesterday)
-POWER LOCKS ARE POSSESED BY EVIL AND GO ON AND OFF AL THE TIME REALLY FAST.... I THINK SOMETIMES THEY SAY MY NAME IN THE DARK ...... BUT SOME TIMES DONT DO IT AT ALL FOR DAYS


so im not sure what could be the stalling and not start but start again when completely cold part , crank sensor, map sensor, fuel pump, any advice? right now it turned again like nothing, but i dont want to risk it again cause yesterday i called for a tow and pay 50 buck for like 3 miles (yea i know )
going to start with the map but ....

I need to do some checking but i need help on this, what tools do i need for this kind of job and other future jobs, i want to start getting my own stuff

i think this one is for disconnect the fuel rail (im planing on ultrasonic cleaning FOR THE GAS MILEAGE but need to take off my injectors )
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Line-Remover-Tool-ASS8013-BRAND-NEW-/400330275137?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d358b3941&vxp=mtr
what kind of fuel pressure tester do i need, there are some really expensive ones, but i only have the durango so i dont need a fancy one, does this cheap one works, or do i need a really expensive one? for checking if my fuel pump its failing and where i am, nobody rent that tool or any not even autozone ....... those bastards
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injection-Pump-Pressure-Tester-Test-Kit-100-PSI-7-Bar-for-Imports-Domestic-/370960347033?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item565ef5af99&vxp=mtr


in case i need to change the fuel pump now or in the future, what tool do i need to disconnect the fuel lines on the pump?

should i buy a oil pressure tester or gauge?

for the gas mileage, can this be a o2 sensor?

and for the possesed power locks ...........well, i leave them for now i guess, until fix the engine or my mirrors start bleeding whatever comes first


thanks in advance

 

hey snake B I have a similar problem with my 04 dodge ram hemi. My truck started sputtering while on the freeway and then just shut down tried starting my truck back up just drained my battery out. Got a half tank of gas so I am assuming its my fuel pump going to replace it this weekend.

 

To start out with simple things, I'd clean the battery connections really well (both at the battery and at the PDC and grounds) and probably just replace the battery too. Having poor power to the computer can all kinds of goofy problems, such as electronics acting up and stalling.

 

oil pressure gauge is working fine. It wont state pegged all the time.. it will fluctuate.

 

I'm thinking PCM at this point. If he has melting wires and such maybe the internal voltage regulator in the PCM is fried. You can get rebuilt ones on ebay and such. You will need to get one for your exact vehicle with mileage and everything. That sure seems like a lot of things even the CTM wouldn't control.

As for a fuel pressure tester, you can rent them or you can look at you local Harbor Freight, not good tools but enough to get you by. One thing you can do is open the fuel tester port valve on the fuel rail and see if you have any pressure in it at least pushing in the valve, but be careful you can get gas in the eyes or what not.

 

thanks for all the replies,

for the battery , mine is always clean, and i have an optima so its sealed and there´s no corrosion (or is cause always clean it) a shop tested my battery and my alternator, both passed with green flags

i did look for pressure and there is fuel on the rail, used a rag and a allen tool so, no spills, once it didnt have any pressure, opened the switch hear the pump buzzing, and repeated the test, and there was again pressure, so i think pump is working, mmmmmm going to look for a pcm, is it better a used one or a rebuild one, this are 13 years old pcm so im not sure wich one to get and rebuild ones are twice the price than just used ones

 

UPDATE:::
so im thinking IT IS THE PCM

i did some testing with a multimeter on the map crank and cam sensors and i found discrepancies

i did the testing with battery disconnected, except for the 5v testing
i disconnect the pcm only for test the signal to pcm looking for broken wire, the rest of tests with pcm connector connected

here is what i found

ALL 3 of them have the 5v when switch on

MAP sensor
signal to pcm 0 ohms (from sensor connector to pcm connector)
signal to ground 30.7 ohms
signal to 5v 29.7 ohms
ground to 5v 1.05 ohms
ground to ground 0 ohms (from sensor connector to body/battery ground)

CAM sensor
signal to pcm 0 ohms (from sensor connector to pcm connector)
signal to ground 2.05 ohms
signal to 5v 1.0 ohms
ground to 5v 1.05 ohms
ground to ground 2.82 (from sensor connector to body/battery ground)

CRANK sensor
signal to pcm 0 ohms (from sensor connector to pcm connector)
signal to ground 1.93 ohms
signal to 5v 0.96 ohms
ground to 5v 1.05
ground to ground 2.82 (from sensor connector to body/battery ground)

so, i think this shows there is something wrong, please correct mecause im not good with electronics, im not really sure what those numbers mean

the map sensor have good ground and good resistance on the others, I THINK,....... but crank and cam sensors, have resistance on the ground, CAN SOMEBODY EXPLAIN THIS TO ME,in the video i saw, the guy says, if there is resistance, its because a corroded wire etc, but why when i test the ground sensor connector, to the ground pcm connector, AND between the 3 ground connectors ,there is 0 ohms, full continuity , but then when i connect the pcm connector, there is resistance, but not on the map sensor ................

im still looking for the pcm or fix mine , im not sure what to do, where i am there are a very few durangos so i dont think i could find a durango on the junkyard

i want to test the cam and crank sensors with the multimeter but im not sure how, cant find that info

 

ANOTHER UPTADE:::

........... SO im completely puzzled here, as i said, my D start when cold, so i took it to a small ride just around the block for testing purposes , until got hot, and then it stalled on a corner, waited 5 mins and started again, then stalled again a little foward, but it smelled really bad, like burnt plastic or the sort, i open the switch and ............... THE PUMP DIDNT KICK IN, now i had help and was silent outside cause i was alone on the road, so i went outside and directly hear on the fuel cap open and i hear the tank while my friend open the switch, and it didnt buzz, now im sure of that, but i checked for fuel on the rail, and there was a lot of pressure stored (isnt this enough for start again?) , then we pushed back to my home, and 4 hours later was cold, and it started again ......... does this sound like a bad pump, or it still is a bad pcm symptom or something else ? why it smelled like burnt plastic?

im going to check my cooling system tomorrow, gauge was reading normal operating temp, but im going to check to be sure, cause i had read that a bad temperature sensor can stop a fuel pump (not sure if it applies to my engine)

i hope somebody can give some advice, does this sound like a pcm going bad all over the place or a pump that is dying? is there a test for know for sure?

maybe some people could think i should take it to a shop ,but as i said before , THIS PROBLEMS STARTED BECAUSE ONE SHOP , when they "cleaned my injectors" they let the fuel pump work while doing so, pumping fuel to a container, i think it maybe it sucked air and got damaged, from that time, the stalls started to appear, but it gave me a p0108 code, not a bad fuel pump and it normally started right away, now don't, only until cold

 

Test for power to the fuel pump when it won't work, that's probably the only way to know for sure if the pump's bad or not.

 

thanks for the reply, im waiting for a pcm, cause i did a test and if im correct, did found that the pcm itself is shorted cause there is resistance between 5v power and ground,on the pins of the pcm,(i think this isnt supposed to happen) and there is too on the signal and grounds (im not sure about this one, but probably is not supposed to be like that either) , and i cleaned all my grounds, using a wiring diagram to found them, and now i have good ground on the sensors , but i think it doesnt matter, the pcm is fried,and posibly some sensors (im not sure for now) so im waiting for a used one to arrive, then i will test again all sensors and connectors

BY THE WAY, how do i check for voltage on the pump, i tried to reach the connector and i couldnt, is reaaaaaaally hard to reach, do i have to lower the entire tank?

well thanks for the help and i will continue updating when i change the pcm