where E is the hard way
#11
04-29-2014, 11:32 PM
I'm gonna have to stick with what shrp said that something's wrong with your sender/communication. Short of taking the needle off and putting it back on indicating a lower position than where you took it off of, it seems like replacing the fuel pump assembly (assuming the float is part of the assembly) might be your only other option. Just for the heck of it hold the trip reset button down with the key off, and then turn the key on while still holding it down. It should start a test on the instrument cluster which includes moving the needles to set point for the purposes of realigning them. It could be the case that your fuel gauge needle is actually off. If that's the case, I believe the correct procedure to fix it is simply to take the needle off and put it back on in the proper position.
#12
04-30-2014, 12:45 AM
#13
04-30-2014, 07:27 AM
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#14
04-30-2014, 08:56 AM
Mine has been rock solid for 13 years, until the last fill-up. It used to turn on the dash light and ding, and the overhead would say '32 miles to empty'. Filling it at maybe '15 miles to empty' would mean adding 22-23 gallons. The last fill-up (two days ago) at '20 to empty' took 25.2 gallons!! ????
I looked just now at the FSM. It shows a conventional float and resistor wiper system. Most vehicles with those just use ohms to ground, but this one uses 12V in. A reading of '0.6V' out means full and '7.0V' means empty.
In my case, I may tap that wire along it's route and do some monitoring at different tank levels, just to get more info on mine.
I looked just now at the FSM. It shows a conventional float and resistor wiper system. Most vehicles with those just use ohms to ground, but this one uses 12V in. A reading of '0.6V' out means full and '7.0V' means empty.
In my case, I may tap that wire along it's route and do some monitoring at different tank levels, just to get more info on mine.
#15
04-30-2014, 10:07 AM
Hall Of Fame
There is a calibration mode on the Instrument Cluster and you might be able to move the needle but I assume your problem is actually the float sending unit system in the fuel pump. If you haven't replaced the fuel pump then you should think about getting one. I know quite a few go out in the 100k-150k mileage areas but of course there are many factors.
On the older instrument clusters 1998-2000 or so with the manual reset button you simply press it and hold then move your key to the "Run" but do not start it. Hold it there until the mileage display states CHEC and let it go (about 20 seconds or so). It will then do a range of calibrations found below.
On the older instrument clusters 1998-2000 or so with the manual reset button you simply press it and hold then move your key to the "Run" but do not start it. Hold it there until the mileage display states CHEC and let it go (about 20 seconds or so). It will then do a range of calibrations found below.
Yep. You would want to run the needle calibration setup ANYTIME you pull the needles for anything. Otherwise, you will not have accurate needle readings.
When you run the calibration, if everything is okay, the needles will move to three different readings, returning to zero each time.
Gauge: First stop - Second stop - Third stop
Battery: 9.5 (first line) - 16 - 18
Coolant: 140 (first line) - 210 - 260
Tachometer : 1000 - 3000 - 5900
Speedometer: 20 - 55 - 120 (the only time most of you will ever see your Speedo at the 120MPH setting
Oil pressure: 35 - 55 - 110
Fuel: 1/8 - 1/4 - Full
After you run the test, if your needles are not correct, pull the one off that is incorrect and reposition it and test again. Usually, the calibration will take care of it for you.
Before the gauges are checked and calibrated, all of the lamp bulbs will be tested too.
If the recal FAILS before the test, you will get a code in the odo that you can cross reference to find out the problem.
Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position. Depress the trip odometer reset button. While holding the trip odometer reset button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine. Keep the trip odometer reset button depressed for about ten seconds, until CHEC appears in the odometer display, then release the odometer reset button.
If you get a 3 digit failure messages in the odometer display, see the Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Instrument Panel/Instrument Cluster Failure Message chart for the description and proper correction.
If no failure message appears, the Self-Diagnostics will proceed.
The cluster will begin the odometer walking segment test. This test will require the operator to visually inspect each odometer segment as it is displayed to determine a pass or fail condition. First, all of the segments will be illuminated at once; then, each individual segment of the odometer display will be illuminated in sequence. If any segment in the display fails to illuminate, repeat the test to confirm the failure. If the failure is confirmed, replace the faulty instrument cluster.
Following the odometer walking segment test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed.
The cluster will perform a bulb check of each indicator lamp that the cluster circuitry controls. If an individual amber indicator lamp does not illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the incandescent lamp bulb is not faulty and that the bulb holder is properly installed on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement.
Following the bulb check test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed. The cluster will perform a gauge actuator test. In this test the cluster positions each of the gauge needles at three different calibration points, then returns the gauge needles to their relaxed positions. If an individual gauge does not respond properly or at all during the gauge actuator test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the gauge terminal pins are properly inserted through the spring-clip terminal pin receptacles on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the gauge terminal connections are OK replace the faulty instrument cluster.
The Self-Diagnostic Test is now completed.
The cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test.
If you have never done this on your D, try it out. You will be amazed at how cool it is AND that you never knew you have a diagnosis tool built into the Ds programming. We have surprisingly modern vehicles.
**IF** you get a failure error, here is the testing message chart:
IndyDurango
When you run the calibration, if everything is okay, the needles will move to three different readings, returning to zero each time.
Gauge: First stop - Second stop - Third stop
Battery: 9.5 (first line) - 16 - 18
Coolant: 140 (first line) - 210 - 260
Tachometer : 1000 - 3000 - 5900
Speedometer: 20 - 55 - 120 (the only time most of you will ever see your Speedo at the 120MPH setting
Oil pressure: 35 - 55 - 110
Fuel: 1/8 - 1/4 - Full
After you run the test, if your needles are not correct, pull the one off that is incorrect and reposition it and test again. Usually, the calibration will take care of it for you.
Before the gauges are checked and calibrated, all of the lamp bulbs will be tested too.
If the recal FAILS before the test, you will get a code in the odo that you can cross reference to find out the problem.
Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position. Depress the trip odometer reset button. While holding the trip odometer reset button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine. Keep the trip odometer reset button depressed for about ten seconds, until CHEC appears in the odometer display, then release the odometer reset button.
If you get a 3 digit failure messages in the odometer display, see the Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Instrument Panel/Instrument Cluster Failure Message chart for the description and proper correction.
If no failure message appears, the Self-Diagnostics will proceed.
The cluster will begin the odometer walking segment test. This test will require the operator to visually inspect each odometer segment as it is displayed to determine a pass or fail condition. First, all of the segments will be illuminated at once; then, each individual segment of the odometer display will be illuminated in sequence. If any segment in the display fails to illuminate, repeat the test to confirm the failure. If the failure is confirmed, replace the faulty instrument cluster.
Following the odometer walking segment test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed.
The cluster will perform a bulb check of each indicator lamp that the cluster circuitry controls. If an individual amber indicator lamp does not illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the incandescent lamp bulb is not faulty and that the bulb holder is properly installed on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement.
Following the bulb check test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed. The cluster will perform a gauge actuator test. In this test the cluster positions each of the gauge needles at three different calibration points, then returns the gauge needles to their relaxed positions. If an individual gauge does not respond properly or at all during the gauge actuator test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the gauge terminal pins are properly inserted through the spring-clip terminal pin receptacles on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the gauge terminal connections are OK replace the faulty instrument cluster.
The Self-Diagnostic Test is now completed.
The cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test.
If you have never done this on your D, try it out. You will be amazed at how cool it is AND that you never knew you have a diagnosis tool built into the Ds programming. We have surprisingly modern vehicles.
**IF** you get a failure error, here is the testing message chart:
IndyDurango
Last edited by hydrashocker; 04-30-2014 at 10:10 AM.
#16
04-30-2014, 10:42 AM
Record Breaker
FWIW, i have a new fuel pump (as of last summer) and my needles are spot on with the calibration test. My overhead STILL says "5 Mi DTE" when i am just in the red box bone dry.
The overhead console will never be completely accurate as the "AVG MPG", "MPG" and the "DTE" and all come from that twisted pair of wires in the harness to the overhead. The tighter or neater they are twisted, the more accurate it will be. Since each one were individually twisted each truck will have different readings.
I personally don't let my tank go below a half tank, first station i pass when its close i pull in and top off. I also carry a gallon in the back just in case we are on a trip in the middle of nowhere and "$hit happends".
The overhead console will never be completely accurate as the "AVG MPG", "MPG" and the "DTE" and all come from that twisted pair of wires in the harness to the overhead. The tighter or neater they are twisted, the more accurate it will be. Since each one were individually twisted each truck will have different readings.
I personally don't let my tank go below a half tank, first station i pass when its close i pull in and top off. I also carry a gallon in the back just in case we are on a trip in the middle of nowhere and "$hit happends".
#17
05-04-2014, 06:53 PM
#19
05-06-2014, 06:23 PM
I think the easiest way to do it would be to take the cover off and turn the ignition on so the needle goes to where the current level (that's wrong) is, then take the needle off (it will pull straight off, might be a bit snug) and put it back 1/16 of a tank or so lower than it currently was. Taking a picture of where it is to start would be wise. While you might be able to hold the shaft and turn the needle without taking it off, you'll probably scratch up the gauges in the process.