When doing a T/S lift how are you guys fixing the negative camber?
I'm asking because when I bought my Durango it had really bad negative camber and bad ball joints. I was thinking the camber was from the ball joint but after replacing ball joints, tie rods and shocks nothing changed.
I took it in for a alignment and when I picked it up they tell me that at some point in time somebody messed with the the torsion bars and they had to lower the front end so they could do a alignment and they charged me $150 leveling fee even tho it looked level before and now it look like its a few inches lower in the front and 31's rub the inner finder in the front.

 

if 31s are rubbing in the front they put the truck too low, 31s were a factory option so they WILL clear w/o any issues, they took a shortcut to get it right by lowering the t-bars to get the camber in line, im not sure how they are supposed to do it, but there IS a correct method of doing it and lowering the T-bars is NOT it

 

thats what I was thinking also but there the only shop for about 80 miles that do alignments. I want to do a T/S lift and run 33's but not if my cambers going to get messed up again. before getting the alignment done I chewed up a set a brand new tires in under 10k miles inside was bald outside was like a new tire.

 

 

everything looks and feels good below. everything feels nice and tight while driving. but yeah that's what they told me that it was adjusted to the max and when I said its lower in the front then stock they said it was at stock spec and to stop the rubbing I should run 235's like the door jam says for some reason even tho it came with 31's or so my build sheet says

 

Like shrpshrt325 said 31's are a stock size and there shouldn't be a rubbing issue. Bent parts are often hard to find and can be overlooked. I'd say take it to a different shop that does alignments but seeing that it's an 80 mile drive it might not happen. Some vehicles have a fair amount of rust and that makes doing an alignment a PITA but there is a right way and a wrong way to do things and by lowering the front suspension like this alignment tech did is the wrong way. He's simply being lazy.

 

yeah I know rust isn't a issue bought the truck in AZ rust free.

 

Sounds like the shop was too incompetent adjust the camber via the control arm and was trying to screw with the torsion bars instead.

 

What that_guy said, they either don't know how or are lazy.

 

I got mine done at the local tire shop (Belle Tire) when I had the new tires put on (33") after I had the T/S kit installed by my mechanic. He showed me the before specs and things were all over the place, but after he got it aligned it was good to go. I do not recall my exact numbers, but my D rides straight and true.