My 2000 Durango 5.9l was running great, shut it off for 10 min to go inside a store, came out and it will turn over great but will not fire. Getting the check engine light and dreaded NO BUS on odometer, but only after cranking longer than 5 sec. It doesn't come on right when I turn on the key.


PCM will not connect to OBD II code reader...says NO LINK. Did odometer CHEC... get codes 920 921 999. Tried Superchips programmer DTC check feature...no DTC's. Tried to reflash my tuning to PCM...tuner cannot establish communications. Guages move a little but don't read volts or proper fuel level. Dash warning lights do come on as they always do prior to starting. Tach doesn't move while cranking. Guages do completely cycle when doing the odometer CHECK/TEST


Cap, rotor, plug wires and plugs changed 3 mos ago.
So far, I have changed the CRANKshaft position sensor...no go


Checked for sensor 5V at Purple/white stripe wire right at the PCM and at throttle position sensor, Getting 4.36 volts without engine running.
Checked coil, no spark. ASD relay feels like its clicking on when key is turned on. Just checked coil feed wire, getting 0.16v while cranking NOT 12V. Checked pulse wire with test light connected to Batt+ while cranking...no pulses


Fuel pressure seems low when depressing valve stem on fuel rail. Doesn't spray out, just dribbles.


Is this a bad PCM? It seems odd that I would lose a fuel pump and ignition coil at the same time. I haven't been hit by lightning.


9/2/14: Found dead short to ground on coil 12V B+ wire. No fuses blown anywhere. I will disconnect the PCM completely today and see if short goes away. That should indicate that the short is developing inside the PCM. If so, guess I'll be springing for a new PCM. I'll replace the ignition coil too in case that's what caused the failure.


9/14/14: Had independent shop check it out. Old PCM sent in for tests, showed it was fried. New PCM on order. Guess I better have an extra on hand as the mechanic said the 1st gen Durango's are notorious for PCM failure. Found out The original PCM was a rebuilt unit, I purchased the car with only 22,000 original miles in 2007.


9/22/14: Well, got a new PCM from All Computer Resources and installed it. No Luck. Still get the check engine lite, no bus on odometer, 920,921,999 CHEK codes when running odometer CHEK.. Still no fuel pressure. A mechanic said I may have a serious problem that blew up the new PCM or I got a defective unit from ACR. Going to send both computers back for analysis and get another one. I will be taking the DANG-O to the local Dodge dealer for repair at $96/Hr.


ANY HELP BEFORE I TAKE IT TO DODGE DEALER IS APPRECIATED. Thanks.

 

This is what I did..
Take your original ECM out and go to or call your local junkyard, make sure the part numbers match!!! Try to buy it from a junkyard that will do returns,,just in case. Take it home and put all 3 plugs in and fire it up! If it runs, your done, bolt it to the firewall and feel good that for 1 hour of labor at the stealership you fixed your Dango

ALL HAIL THE JUNKYARD!!

 

I got a rebuilt PCM from ALL COMPUTER Resources as my local junkyards had no PCM's in stock. Newly rebuilt PCM did not solve anything.

 

Swap the ASD relay and the horn relay. See what happens.

 

Well, I gave up and towed it to the local dodge dealer. I'll post the results on what they find. The service manager said the worst case "no bus" issue she's seen took 3 hours at $96/hr to diagnose. If the engine and the rest of the drive train weren't in such good shape I'd get rid of the dang-o but with only 100293 on it and as good as it runs when it runs, It would probably take $10,000 to get another 4wd that is as mechanically sound. Electrically...hmmm...we'll see.

 

How much diag it will be will depend on how many modules the DRBIII can see on the module scan. If it's ONLY the PCM that's offline, that will narrow it down a HUGE amount. Sometimes it's quick, sometimes not.


About 70% of the "NO BUS" I get are the PCM. The other 30% are expensive. It's always good to have a couple known good modules in your arsenal. Judging from what he told you, they probably have a good idea of how to attack it.


I've had that be caused by a seatbelt switch, crank sensor, O2 sensor, pinched PCI wire after someone did a dash pull for a heater core, a really corroded PCM ground, Central Timer Module, very rarely water in the ABS connector.

 

Well Dodge called today. They said that the rebuilt PCM I got from All computer resources shows bad and they cannot proceed any further without a working PCM. I don't know if I got a bad rebuilt unit, or if something in the Durango is blowing the computer the instant power is applied. I have no blown fuses and no obviously burnt wires anywhere. All computer resources is going to send me one more unit in exchange. Dodge wants an INSANE $1050. for a REMAN unit from them. Anyone know of a reliable PCM company that is reasonably priced? Thanks.

 

Oreilly's




Put in about 10 of them in the last 6 months.

 

TNtech..I do really appreciate your info. I don't have deep pockets and if another PCM from ACR doesn't do it I may be having to bring the dang-o home and do a bunch more troubleshooting myself. Hope I can keep in touch. Thanks again.

 

(9/2/14: Found dead short to ground on coil 12V B+ wire.)


I was told to test the PCM to ignition coil pulse wire by connecting a test light to Battery + and probe the coil signal wire coming from the PCM while cranking to see if I get flashing pulses which I didn't get anything. I then probed the other wire (12v+ coil feed wire) and the test light lit up? This is weird as I would think probing a 12v+ wire from a 12V+ source (Batt +) would not light up a test light as there should be no path to ground? Or does dodge ground the 12V+ coil wire to ground when the engine isn't running?