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Those are coolant lines for your rear heat on is the supply one is the return it is and the best way to access them is by pulling the wheel well off I just did this a couple weeks ago you can buy a factory line for around 50 bucks or replace it with bulk hose and clamps but given the funky way these lines kinda bell out make sure the inside diameter is correct if not the pressure will not be correct If you got the money buy the factory line off rock auto it's cheaper and easier
Thanks, totally realize the wheel well needs to be removed. None to borrow but bought floor jack and stands today.
I think my question which might be revealed upon inspection is specifically what is the coupling at the bend there and can this be fixed by clamping? coupler parts i got fr dealer are labeled ac line repair (1/2 3/8 5/8). AC line- did you buy the full plumbing line that runs all the way to the rear?
My goal is to do as much work as i can to save labor. Regrettably I don't have access, time or desire to do pressure tests et al but this convo has really helped me.
The ac drain issue is separate but FYI applied RTV red around the foam gasket, so we'll see if it's that or heater core leak. Everyone that speaks of water in pax foot well is when AC is run, but for me it was during testing the heat.
Mine is the 4.7 liter but the lines are the same size I did not replace with factory plumbing the section of hose I had to replace came from the splitter under the hood because the Y shaped plastic fitting split so I made my own splitter. I would say your best bet would be replace a small section of hose and use a hose clamp to connect to the metal line if you can't get enough slack to reattach the existing after cutting off the snap ring that's leaking. So you will need a female to female fitting with the ridges on it that fits snug in the new hose you can get it from a hardware store I recommend brass because plastic will eventually crack on you and 3 hose clamps.
I hope this helps it worked for me. If you have anymore questions let me know. And I can take a picture of what I had to do tomorrow if you would like I haven't put the wheel well back on because I'm slowly replacing differential seals, tie rods ball joints, cv axel, bushings, control arm bumpers,etc. I had it sit for about a year and everything rubber went to hell haha
Note: I did notice when clamping the 5/8 line on to the metal line you will have to slide it over the ridge ring on the metal and clamp it on that side of it only or it will leak I tried clamping on both sides of it and it leaked an tried clamping it pretty much the way it is with the snapring and it leaked.
Been doing similar stuff to my Dakota (4.7L), so these might help. Not done with the coolant leak yet, but found source last night using pressure tester. It's a heater bypass hose leaking at the crimp. Plan to cut off the crimp and thrown on a worm clamp.
I wish that was the part that went bad on mine to replace it back to factory it's basically a 3 hose assembly ,molded and fitted. The Y where the three hoses meet cracked in the center "plastic bs" from what I understood the dealership wanted almost $200 uhhh no, bought a T fitting 3' of hose and 4 clamps for about $10. Problem solved and they are NOT a.c lines .
I wish that was the part that went bad on mine to replace it back to factory it's basically a 3 hose assembly ,molded and fitted. The Y where the three hoses meet cracked in the center "plastic bs" from what I understood the dealership wanted almost $200 uhhh no, bought a T fitting 3' of hose and 4 clamps for about $10. Problem solved and they are NOT a.c lines .
It's $94 at the dealer (mine anyway), not $200. I tried the DIY 'T' fab first, looked like crap.
Well finally got a look see and now I can't replicate the damn issue. I ran the heat for about 5 mins then turned the car off. In the past I'd see a drip on the largest line.
Recall I just bought the car so no real history, I will say however the heat seems not as hot as when I first tested. Could the heater core be going as evidence by my past 1/4 gallon water puddle in my pax footwell from the first 2 times I tested the heat? High Pressure? Rad cap? I used red RTV on the AC drain foam insulation but again water issue was after using heat not ac.
