I believe two. One in the back of each manifold. Someone can correct me if Im wrong. There may be a down stream as well, not sure.

 

I think I know where you're going with this as well. The entire drivers bank looked different. 1,5,7 were lean, but 3 still didn't look right. 2,4,6,8 were all virtually identical to each other and a good tan color so that bank is good at least. Maybe I could have an issue with an o2 sensor. Gonna see what it looks like when I pull plugs again and see what I find

 

Is that california emissions with 3 o2 sensors? Mine only has 1 before the cat and one after.

 

Mine may be the same I honestly can't remember. My other truck has 4, 2 cats, 1 down and 1 upstream of both cats. So I may just not be remembering properly. I sure hope it's not a Cali truck. I live in Oklahoma. We haven't even had to pass inspections since 01

 

Don’t like resurrecting old threads, but this one’s mine so here we go. Out of the issues and things replace I never got rid of the overheating issues. Truck will run for 30 minutes, then temps will climb. Some on here saw my griffin radiator conversion. That didn’t cut it. Put the fan clutch back on with the griffin radiator. It’s better but still climbs at idle after running 30 mins.

I did end up getting my ac working though. Napa expansion valves are what I ended up using front and rear. 90+ outside I’m getting 38° air out of the vents idled up with fan engaged. At idle it’s about 45°.

So anyway, back to the coolant temp. We sold our house recently and We wanna start going camping more and my long term goal is for the Durango to be an overlanding rig so I’ve been working on getting a lot of issues and leaks resolved in the past month. Fixed a pretty big oil leak and a coolant leak in the timing cover. System holds pressures better now but still the same symptoms.

So instead of beating my head against a wall any longer, I broke down and bought thermo-cure made by evaporust. Did 2 treatments with over 4 hours of run time each. I know there’s risk of head gasket failures with these chemical treatments. But that’s where I’m at with this thing. If I’ve gotta do head gaskets to fix it, that’s what I’ll do. It hasn’t blown a head gasket thankfully. I have though gotten dozens of BB sized chunks of rusty metal out and some bigger. Got a little sheet of rust the size of a dime. I bypassed my heater core when I did this and I put my old parts store radiator back in. No way I was gonna let my $300 Griffin be the filter for all this rust. I flushed it all out then drove for a week just water then flushed it again before going back with 50/50 coolant/distilled water. Unfortunately, it’s not been as hot recently to get a good torture test. But the past 2 days have been 95° and the needle hasn’t moved past thermostat temp. So time will tell, but I’m hopeful.

also, the heat soaking only seems to go to about 215° now not 230-240. So that’s good. Hopefully my next post on this thread will be next summer in 100+ AC on full blast and no temp climb and all will be well. Then I’ll put my Taurus fan back in and be a much happier Durango owner. Thanks to all who have posted on this over the years by the way.

 

Just curious, how often have you been changing your coolant? I've been making it a point to flush with distilled water and replace the coolant every 2 years at most for the past 12 years or so. Early on I'd get some evidence of rust out, but I don't remember seeing anything other than green coolant anytime since. Some of these new coolants (like the mopar purple my charger came with) can go a lot longer and still look pristine, but the green stuff just needs changed more often it seems.

My taurus fan setup worked pretty well for 8 or 9 years too. I only remember it struggling to keep up one or two times when caught in traffic on the interstate for an hour in 100+ degree weather. When you look at the area of the radiator it doesn't cover (at least with its own shroud) you can see there is room for improvement.

I got a new full aluminum rad (chinesium sadly) so I could ditch the plastic tanks. When putting that on I decided to get some better shrouding. Found one premade (for a 55 F100 I think) that fit the radiator pretty well. To it I bolted a volvo 850 fan (same motor as the taurus fan, but slightly smaller blades).



I ran that for a couple weeks and didn't have trouble, but you could tell it wasn't as much air moving as the taurus fan. Then I came across the Jeep WJ 4L fan. It's a dual speed unit as well (both wires need powered for hi), and is 18-19" in diameter instead of 15-16" like the taurus and volvo fans. It's quieter, moves more air, and actually draws a bit less power (blades must be more efficient).




Mounted the relays on the shroud with some deutsch connectors for a neater install than before too.




So far this setup has been working great. Went to florida last month and towed a wrangler back that a buddy of mine bought. Temp never got above the set point (200) for the fan to come on high speed. So if you still need some extra cooling that may be a good upgrade from the taurus fan for you. The taurus fans are a lot harder to find anymore too, no luck with them at parts stores or junkyards around here anymore. WJs are still plentiful though, so way easier to find parts if you get stuck somewhere.

 

I've changed it multiple times since I've owned the truck. It was not taken care of before I got it. Several things had been neglected, coolant included. The first time I flushed it, it ran red orange for 20-30 minutes with the garden hose running in the radiator inlet. Whenever I flush like that by the way, I run 4 or so gallons of distilled through the system afterwards to flush out any city water before I add in fresh. I won't say it's been done every 2 years, but it's certainly not gone more than 3, and that's only been the last time. It has only had maybe 6,000 miles put on it the last 3 years so it doesn't worry me too bad. Before that it would get coolant flushes minimum one a year because I was always trying to figure out my overheating issue. The coolant that was drained out this time before flushing did have probably 20-30 smaller chunks of rust in it. But a lot more came out with the chemical flush.

Also, just so everyone knows, I'm not promoting chemical flushes. I would say never use one unless you're ready and willing to at least do head gaskets and replace a water pump. And throw in the possibility of a radiator and a heater core. I eliminated the last 2 but I am genuinely at the point of doing head gaskets, and a water pump is a 1 hour job tops so no big deal there.

And that's good to know. I'll keep an eye out the next time I hit a salvage yard and may snag one. You're right, the Taurus ones are getting harder to get your hands on. I'm wondering though if the WJ fan will be too big for my Griffin. The taurus fan actually fit really well. The griffin isn't quite as tall as the factory radiator, but it was twice as thick. It'll probably fit though, I'll take some measurements before buying it. I just wanna know for sure I have no other cooling issues before I attempt to go back to Electric.

I also want to re-mount my Griffin. I wanna put it in the core support like the later run first gens came with from the factory. Then with the electric fan, there'll be a ton of room to get to things and work on the front of the motor.

 

Might be making a junkyard run soon. Just wondering what models and years have this WJ fan and what shroud is that you’re using?

thx