I been hunting down my battery killer drain. I killed the aftermarket remote starter. took out the multi meter and disconnected the batter pos. reading 0.178 amps from cable to pole. re hung the cable to the pole and went from fuse to fuse under the hood. int lmp 40amp fuse was drawing 0.178 amp. I pulled that fuse unhooked the cable from the pos pole and did the reading from pole to cable and reading was 0.07 amp. but that fuse does dome lights, dash lights, and radio clock. I don`t care about loosing dome lighting but dash lighting is a need. driver side door fuse box I pulled the fuse 1 15 amp int lamps and my reading was 0.09 amp, but that fuse also killed the dash lights even though there is a fuse for dash lights on the driver side fuse box. I`m kind of at a stuck.

 

after taking an break with raking my mind. I went back to it. it seems that 40 amp int lmp fuse under the hood was also linked to the tail lights. Was confused on that but ok. I plugged the fuse back in and turned on the lights and notice the driver side tail light was not on, so I went to see if the blob was burnt. to find out that the socket tab was broken and the twist lock stop was broken to the point you can spin it all the around. when I got it out finally the blob was find but the blob holder was burnt. then I did the amp test with it out reading at 0.09 amps. it seem who ever change the blob before i got the truck over twisted it and cross the pins make a short between the two pos pins i`m guessing since they are so close together. yet i`m still a bit confused.

 

With the truck off, there shouldn't be any power back there......

And a less than .2 amp draw I do believe is within spec.... Have you had the battery tested?

 

it`s a brand new battery fully charge before installing it and tested after it first drained dead. it confusing to me too why tail light was drawing with the truck off. thought spec is around 0.05 amp. 50 ma

 

Put an amp meter on it and start pulling fuses to isolate the bad circuit.

 

I`m not trying to be mean or rude. on the first post i made. that was what I was doing. taking amp readings on both the fuse boxes.

 

Don't take readings at the fuse box, pull the battery cable again as you did, so you see that 0.178A reading again, and leave the meter there. Then pull fuses one at a time to see what circuit lowers the reading. Some things are normal to draw power as you know, but seeing which fuse does what should help isolate the problem.

 

i did that the other day both ways of amp draw testing. both show the 40 amp fuse marked Int Lmp under the hood. just trying to figure out what all that fuse controls beside the dome lights, dash lights, and radio clock display. just confused with tail lights tied into the same fuse. it`s a Square Car Fuse 40A JCASE Cartridge. when I found the tail light was not coming on with that fuse out. I plugged it back in and checked the tail lights. thats when I saw the driver side one was out. so I checked that one to find the socket was over twisted and may caused the short. i pulled the socket out. as shown in the pic above. the draw drop to 0.09 amp. from battery pole to cable. the haynes manual gave no info in what all that fuse controls and the manuals wiring diagrams sucks too. also I find the truck has parking lights not used to that up here in canada. wondering if that is also tied into it too.

 

after you found a fuse, sucking power, connect multitester in resistance mode and start disconnecting devices feeding from that fuse. You will find "sucker". If you don't, that means there is a short in harness. Locate wires in harness and start cutting them. Every time you cut, you'll find bad half. Before cutting, do visual inspection of harness.
jumper wire