It drives around town fine in town no stalling doing 30km/h to 60km/h, but after hitting the hyway for 30min at 90km/h. Exiting the hyway and coming to a stop it stalls. Have to drop it on neutral restart and give it gas and drop it into drive. The IAC has been replaced.

Also if pull of the side and leave the engine off for 20 min. It will start and idle fine.

 

When the engine is fully warmed up the rpm sticks around 500rpm. I was told to remove the plug to the idle screw and up the idle to 700 to 800. Would that be a good idea?

 

No. PCM would just compensate by closing the IAC some more. What brand IAC did you install? Did you reset the PCM after changing it?? I have had nothing but problems with aftermarket IAC valves..... slow response, which leads to stalling, unstable idle, etc.

 

It's stock one from Napa.

Pull the neg cable off and turn the key to run for 5 seconds. If there is another way please tell.

 

That works. I also will hook the battery back up, turn the key to run, count to ten, THEN start the engine. Gives the pcm time to relearn the zero value of various sensors.

 

Clean the battery connections good and if your battery is old consider replacing it. The computer not getting the proper voltage (it's picky) can really monkey with stuff.

 

The battery is only a year old fully charge and clean. I didn't the full reset last night. Didn't get to do the test drive yet since it started to down pore and thunder storm. I didn't want to have my head under the hood getting soaking wet. Today I have my final driving exam to do. Hopefully I can do the test run tonight.

Running the volt are 14. So the alt is working.

 

is the alternator putting out enough current? voltage is only half the battle, your going to need a load test to see what kind of current it can put out.

 

Took the Durango for a drive with live data odb. Odb found nothing but when it quit at the stop sign, so I turned the corner and I heard the power steering whine. As I parked it. One of the seals blew out on the rack and pinion. So I wonder if that cause the stall out at low rpm. With the power steering pump draining its fluid out of the blown seal of the rack and pinion.?

 

I guessing I should avoid a seal kit and replace the rack and pinion. I have to take off the belt and hand turn the steering pump to see if it's starting to seize up with my question if that is the cause of low rpm stall. What are the list of parts I need to replace a rack and pinion. Besides the rack and pinion, and tie rods?

My rack and pinion is in this shape. Freaking boots hold lot of fluid before pissing out.