I have a 99 Durango, 5.2, auto, 123,000 miles, that shows a P1391 code, but, only on the third restart after the CEL is cleared. I just bought it this past week, so, i dont know much about it, but, what i do know is they were chasing this issue for awhile, and, in doing so, were just throwing parts at it, including the cam sensor in the distributor, plugs, wires (which were off by one lug on the cap, so, i reset them to the right spots), coil, cap, rotor, and possibly even the distributor itself, since it looks really clean, meaning way too clean to be original. After having it towed home, i put my scanner on it, and found a completely dead CKP (crank sensor), so, i originally replaced it with one from Advance, that got it to run, but really crappy, so, i went and got one from Autozone, and, now, if i clear the CEL, and start it, it will run, and have lots of power (i let it idle for over an hour after resetting the CEL, and it never stumbled once, until i shut it off), but, if i shut it off and restart it twice, it progressively gets worse, right up until, after the third start, it sputters and acts up, then stalls, then wont restart unless i clear the CEL again. When i tested the 3 wires going to the CKP, i got 5V at both outside wires with the key on and the sensor unplugged, and, i get 12V on the center ground wire. Same results with the CMP. I also verified that the distributor rotor points at the cutout on the CMP when its at #1 TDC. I not only verified #1 TDC by pulling the #1 plug and having someone bump the starter, then setting the crank pulley mark at the TDC mark on the timing cover, but also by pulling the valve cover. My questions then are, where to go from here? I found a few mentions of setting fuel timing with a scanner, but no instructions on how to do it (i have an Innova 3160 and a small older MAC one that i cant remember the model of, but, neither of those seem to have that function, unless im just missing it in the menus). What are the chances of it being either fuel timing, or timing chain and gears? Does that engine have the cam gear with the nylon teeth? I also suspect the PO may have screwed up the ECM, but, is there any way to figure that out for sure? Can i get a used ECM just to see if that fixes it, or wont it run on a used one until its programmed to that specific vehicle? I know the VIN and possibly mileage have to be programmed to the ECM, but, is there anything else that would stop a used ECM from at least getting it to run, just to see if that is the issue? I know the ECM numbers have to match, but, i have never tried a used ECM in any vehicle, because im afraid it might damage other things, but, if it will work, im willing to chance it. I just dont want to go through pulling a used one, only to find out it wont run anyway.

 

Start with easier first, Replace the crankshaft sensor with a Mopar sensor. Also make sure the wire to the sensor is not pinch into the bell housing. Also if you have a bad flex plate the will also cause some problem too. I don't that is your case. Try a Mopar sensor first. As you already know the cam sensor is in the dist. Also to set the timing. You need to set the sink timing which is 0 to 5 degrees.

 

It was fuel sync. I borrowed my brothers Snap-On scanner, and found that fuel sync was off 26 degrees, so, i set it at 0 degrees with it running, and no more issues, and no more check engine light. The PO even left the distributor hold down bolt a little loose from when he messed with it. Now on to figuring out why the transmission was at least 2 quarts low, and why the ABS and brake lights are on, which will be tomorrow's project.

 

Thanks for the update.