1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

burnt valve?

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  #11  
Old 07-21-2020, 03:53 PM
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90 PSI is below spec...... If the other bank is just as bad, then yeah, that head needs to come off as well.

While paying a machine shop to address your valves isn't precisely cheap..... they can also make sure you don't have a valve seat problem.....
 
  #12  
Old 07-21-2020, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mopman42
ugh... doing a quick search, looks like sending your head to a machine shop for a valve job is very expensive.

Bought a valve spring compressor tool online and it is on its way so I'll take out the valves out and inspect them.
Which one did you get? Coulda probably saved you some bucks. I just did my springs, lifters, seals, etc and used this combo tool. May never use it again, LOL.





 
  #13  
Old 07-22-2020, 02:15 PM
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Yep, that is same one I ordered, lol. Does it work well?
 
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Old 07-22-2020, 02:53 PM
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Do you need a special tool for the seals?
 
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Old 07-22-2020, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by mopman42
Yep, that is same one I ordered, lol. Does it work well?
It does work well, just sometimes it can slip and parts go flying. The good thing is, you're doing this with the heads out of the engine. I didn't have that luxury.

It does the seals too. It comes with two legs. The other leg compresses the spring enough for you get at the keepers. Once you get the keepers out, the spring comes off and you can pull off the seals. Get an extending magnet for removing the keepers and get heavy grease for sticking them to your fingers, when putting them back in.
 
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Old 07-22-2020, 07:24 PM
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do you just pull the seals off with a pair of pliers?
 
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Old 07-22-2020, 08:22 PM
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DON'T half *** this. Pulling the heads is a bunch of work, gaskets aren't free, etc. Do it once and do it right.
 
  #18  
Old 07-22-2020, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mopman42
do you just pull the seals off with a pair of pliers?
Yes, or even your fingers. I cleaned where the seals seat with some shop rags draped over a screwdriver and soaked with brake clean. Same goes for the lifter holes.

New seal on the right, lifter hole on left. You put a deep socket over the seal and tap the socket with a mallet till it seats all the way. I coated all the seals with dielectric grease applied with a toothbrush. Helps it slide on and seat easy.



Here, you might as well go through these two threads....

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ine-issue.html

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ot-soak-2.html

 

Last edited by Dodgevity; 07-22-2020 at 09:12 PM.
  #19  
Old 07-24-2020, 03:50 PM
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Got the tool, removed the valve and verified that it was bad. Not bent but the valve seat you can tell is not concentric... it is way off which explains why the valve leaked so bad during the leak test. Also noticed that there is much more play in the valve guide that one of the valves that did have a good seal. Really don't think this is worth the money trying to repair it. Probably need a new valve seat and valve guide which I think would be more than buying a re-manufactured cylinder head?

seat from 3 to about 7 o'clock much larger than rest of the seat
 

Last edited by mopman42; 07-24-2020 at 03:58 PM. Reason: add image
  #20  
Old 07-24-2020, 07:42 PM
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Spoke with a machinist, he quoted me worse case price which wasn't too much above the price of reman head. I have absolutely no confidence in the valves in either head right now. You're right volaredon... I don't want to half *** this. Gonna take off the other head and send both to the machine shop.
 



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