Trans temp light on
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1998 dodge durango 5.9 4x4 Trans temp
Hello I was wondering if anyone would be able to shed some light on my trans temp light being on. I have replaced both trans cooler lines as well as the trans cooler and radiator.
Last edited by Ryan Garcia; Sep 10, 2020 at 09:22 PM.
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From: Clayton MI
Couple things to check.
First, make sure trans fluid level is correct. Have to check it in neutral, as checking in park will give you an artificially high reading.
Second, there is a check valve in the cooler line running to the radiator, they are notorious for clogging up, and preventing adequate flow thru the cooler..... It is generally located right where the line transitions from steel, to rubber, just in front of the motor, on the passenger side. (at least, on the same year trucks it is......) Should be the line going to the BOTTOM radiator fitting. If you still have the check valve, get rid of it. You can just drill it out, clean the line REALLY well, and reinstall, or, just replace that bit of line with some trans line from the parts store. (should only need about foot.) Don't forget the clamps.
Either way, you will need the release tool for the 3/8ths quick connect. Don't know if the parts stores rent those or not. The plastic 'multi-tool' type fellers won't go in there, so, keep that in mind. I think I spent 15 bucks or so on the cool aluminum one, specifically for that size. (which, conveniently enough, will also fit the fuel line at the intake.
)
First, make sure trans fluid level is correct. Have to check it in neutral, as checking in park will give you an artificially high reading.
Second, there is a check valve in the cooler line running to the radiator, they are notorious for clogging up, and preventing adequate flow thru the cooler..... It is generally located right where the line transitions from steel, to rubber, just in front of the motor, on the passenger side. (at least, on the same year trucks it is......) Should be the line going to the BOTTOM radiator fitting. If you still have the check valve, get rid of it. You can just drill it out, clean the line REALLY well, and reinstall, or, just replace that bit of line with some trans line from the parts store. (should only need about foot.) Don't forget the clamps.
Either way, you will need the release tool for the 3/8ths quick connect. Don't know if the parts stores rent those or not. The plastic 'multi-tool' type fellers won't go in there, so, keep that in mind. I think I spent 15 bucks or so on the cool aluminum one, specifically for that size. (which, conveniently enough, will also fit the fuel line at the intake.
)
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Couple things to check.
First, make sure trans fluid level is correct. Have to check it in neutral, as checking in park will give you an artificially high reading.
Second, there is a check valve in the cooler line running to the radiator, they are notorious for clogging up, and preventing adequate flow thru the cooler..... It is generally located right where the line transitions from steel, to rubber, just in front of the motor, on the passenger side. (at least, on the same year trucks it is......) Should be the line going to the BOTTOM radiator fitting. If you still have the check valve, get rid of it. You can just drill it out, clean the line REALLY well, and reinstall, or, just replace that bit of line with some trans line from the parts store. (should only need about foot.) Don't forget the clamps.
Either way, you will need the release tool for the 3/8ths quick connect. Don't know if the parts stores rent those or not. The plastic 'multi-tool' type fellers won't go in there, so, keep that in mind. I think I spent 15 bucks or so on the cool aluminum one, specifically for that size. (which, conveniently enough, will also fit the fuel line at the intake. )
First, make sure trans fluid level is correct. Have to check it in neutral, as checking in park will give you an artificially high reading.
Second, there is a check valve in the cooler line running to the radiator, they are notorious for clogging up, and preventing adequate flow thru the cooler..... It is generally located right where the line transitions from steel, to rubber, just in front of the motor, on the passenger side. (at least, on the same year trucks it is......) Should be the line going to the BOTTOM radiator fitting. If you still have the check valve, get rid of it. You can just drill it out, clean the line REALLY well, and reinstall, or, just replace that bit of line with some trans line from the parts store. (should only need about foot.) Don't forget the clamps.
Either way, you will need the release tool for the 3/8ths quick connect. Don't know if the parts stores rent those or not. The plastic 'multi-tool' type fellers won't go in there, so, keep that in mind. I think I spent 15 bucks or so on the cool aluminum one, specifically for that size. (which, conveniently enough, will also fit the fuel line at the intake.
)
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,413
Likes: 4,214
From: Clayton MI
Did you do anything with the check valve??
Could be a bad sensor I suppose. Have a scanner you can plug in, and see what the pcm thinks trans temp is, when everything is stone cold?
Could be a bad sensor I suppose. Have a scanner you can plug in, and see what the pcm thinks trans temp is, when everything is stone cold?
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Champion
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Atlanta
I'm not familiar with the 46RE but my 545RFE has two, a flat filter and spin-on. I once replaced the spin-on with a cheap aftermarket but found out it didn't have the anti drain-back valve and who knows if it was designed with a bypass in case it clogged? I ended up replacing it with a Mopar filter. The flat filter can be back flushed with a garden hose.
Last edited by Dodgevity; Sep 11, 2020 at 10:29 AM.