For some time I had been doing the misc auto work for my neighbors on the 2000 Durango and other misc cars they had, a year ago when they decided to get new ones they gave me the Durango as a thanks for all the help I had given them last few years now I am working on it to basically do all the maintenance it needs and I had not done when they owned it and am running into a few questions I did not realize before.

1st I finally was able to get the Build sheet from dodge (using the Vin#) and it shows the durango having a Anti-Slip rear diff So I plan to remove the rear cover drain all the fluid and replace and I should add a friction modifier no matter what the Diff oil claims it has correct.( I am a bit confused by the Haynes manual it says to use SAE 75-90 GL-5 Gear Lubricant OR Mopar ATF+4) There is a big difference between 75-90 Gear lube and mopar ATF+4 correct?

2nd it has the 46RE 4 speed automatic which the haynes manual states uses ATF+4 ( I think they had just been using plain old ATF Previously) I planned to pull the pan and replace the Filter anyway due to mileage but manual says only takes 4 quarts where dry fill requires 9-14 do these by chance have a Torque converter Drain plug like some of the older Mopars had? if not how could I drain the rest of the fluid without pulling the tranny and manually dumping the convertor?
3rd. I just did a drain and flush of the Radiator as it had blown a heater hose and wanted to replace the hoses and refill with proper anti freeze. I seen it says to use HOAT Antifreeze (I had a 2005 T&C that had to use that also) but cannot seem to find HOAT antifreeze now just OAT anyone know where I can find HOAT antifreeze?

I realize I have 3 questions here in one topic but did not think 3 seperate posts should be needed

 

Yes, there is a big difference. Don't use ATF+4 for the diff.
You don't drain it all, one shot... you do multiples. It takes 3 drain and fills (driving in between) to effectively replace all the fluid. Suggest you check the fluid level before draining and make sure it's full, then measure the amount you drain out and and replace with the same. I've got the 545RFE and drain and fill once every 25K. Currently at 320K with no issue. I also use the ATF+4 from walmart (supertech) and it's worked fine. PS: this is all much easier if you buy an aftermarket pan with a drain plug, or drill your current pan and add a drain plug (I did the latter).




https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mopar-681...RoCI1wQAvD_BwE

 

If you want to get the old trans fluid out quicker you can take the cooler lines off the cooler. Stick the inlet in a 5 gal bucket of fresh fluid and the outlet in an empty bucket and let it run in neutral (maybe cycle gears while holding brake). Just don't let it suck air. Drop the pan and change filter after and call it good.

That said getting a pan with a drain plug might be an easier option .

 

IS there any suction on the return line???? I didn't think there was......

 

Not sure, I've never actually tried it. Just have seen people here mentioning that "two bucket" style of transmission fluid changes before.

 

Yeah, I avoid doing that because damage occurs very fast when it sucks air. ATF+4 will mix with old fluid and work, provided that the tranny is not already screwed up, so there is really no need. I had some valvoline universal ATF in mine when I got it. I never bothered to try and extract it all in one shot. I simply ran drain and fills from there on, every 25K. I might have run shorter intervals to begin with, but I believe I did drill the pan the very first time after replacing filters. Dealing with all those bolts, the mess and sealing it each time is a huge pain. Drain bolt make things as simple as an engine oil change.

 

I've personally never liked the idea of mixing fluids.

 

As long as you're not mixing incompatible fluids, it's okay. https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/f...20each%20other.

 

Thanks for the info, I never even thought about a aftermarket pan or the drain plug Idea , But that is a huge time saver.
I recently got the Dodge Factory service manual which goes into great depths as far as the Transmision, the Transfer case and most importantly for me the Rear diff and the Anti-Spin or Sure Grip.
I could of swore the older Haynes Manuals Like i had for my 74 Power Wagon 4X4 had much more info as far as the diffs etc.
Sadly it seems anymore people do not want to nor know how to do their own work on diffs , transmissions, engines just go buy replacements.
I actually have some Old mid 60's Motor manuals that show how to rebuild just about everything imaginable in a vehicle from starters and alternators to wiper motors etc, back in the day where you could not just go buy an aftermarket item at the local auto parts store.

 

I still have with my 69 satellite that my grandpap bought a couple years old the service manual because they GAVE them to you with the cars back then. I have the one my dad bought with my Durango from the dealer. Wasn't included, but was at least offered. When I bought my Charger used no such thing was around. Had to go hunt around for an electronic version for it online. Things definitely have declined there with time.