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My 2003 Durango was involved in a head on head collision, after putting it back together new radiator, bumper, hood, headlights etc. I started it up and it was stuck on high idle, like 1800rpm. As you drive it the idle continuously gets higher and never drops until you shut it off and when you start it again it’s at 1800rpm. I have replaced the TPS, the Map sensor, and the Air surge sensor. Please any other ideas would be great because my 18yo dumbass is at a loss
My 2003 Durango was involved in a head on head collision, after putting it back together new radiator, bumper, hood, headlights etc. I started it up and it was stuck on high idle, like 1800rpm. As you drive it the idle continuously gets higher and never drops until you shut it off and when you start it again it’s at 1800rpm. I have replaced the TPS, the Map sensor, and the Air surge sensor. Please any other ideas would be great because my 18yo dumbass is at a loss
Make sure no vacuum hoses are disconnected, that would be my strongest suspicion given the circumstances. It could also be the IAC (idle air control) valve which is right below the TPS (#3 in the diagram below). When you replace these things (all the sensors you mentioned as well), replace them with Mopar brand as aftermarkets can cause issues. Finally, pull the neg battery cable overnight to reset everything after replacing any sensors.
My 2003 Durango was involved in a head on head collision, after putting it back together new radiator, bumper, hood, headlights etc. I started it up and it was stuck on high idle, like 1800rpm. As you drive it the idle continuously gets higher and never drops until you shut it off and when you start it again it’s at 1800rpm. I have replaced the TPS, the Map sensor, and the Air surge sensor. Please any other ideas would be great because my 18yo dumbass is at a loss
Originally Posted by Dodgevity
Make sure no vacuum hoses are disconnected, that would be my strongest suspicion given the circumstances. It could also be the IAC (idle air control) valve which is right below the TPS (#3 in the diagram below). When you replace these things (all the sensors you mentioned as well), replace them with Mopar brand as aftermarkets can cause issues. Finally, pull the neg battery cable overnight to reset everything after replacing any sensors.
I'm having a similar situation on my 2000 Durango. The RPM seem to surge and keep up around 1800 RPM when the air temp and engine temp increase. I had an issue with the TCM (Code 700 and also code 1294) J replaced the TCM with a matching part # off ebay and it seemed to work....for a while. The trans now shifts correctly although it a bit hard from first to second (going to do a fluid and filter change asap) but Thursday when I took my wife out to dinner for her birthday, Red was really surging....idle in park/neutral was around 1800 RPM instead of around 6-800 RPM. When in gear it is still high around 1800 RPM and if you take your foot off the brake, it wants to run like you have your foot in it. I also noticed the area of the TCM and ECU getting hot but not sure if the 90+ degree weather was to blame or not....the idle all of a sudden happened, I drove her last Wednesday with no issues and when I got back home a week later on Thursday, the idle was high...almost like the old days of carburetors and the idle set screw being too high....
Not sure how well it correlates with the 4.7 electronics, but a sudden high idle on my 99 last summer was due to a bad map sensor. I could see aTPS or IAC valve being culprits too. In any case I wouldn't use anything but Mopar sensors for any of that stuff these days. Aftermarket stuff, particularly sensors, are so unreliable these days. I figured if the original mopar map sensor lasted 22 years that's what I'd go with again.
One of those cheap smoke machines made from an old paint can is great for tracking down vacuum leaks too. One helped me track down bad throttle shaft seals on my 928 I'd have never found otherwise.
Any codes? Pull off the intake hose and clean the throttle body, esp around the butterfly with a soft tootbrush and carb cleaner. Stick a rag down the throat to collect the dirt. Also check vacuum hose to brake booster to see if it's fully attached and no leaks. You can clean the IAC too.
Last edited by Dodgevity; Oct 19, 2022 at 04:16 PM.
Any codes? Pull off the intake hose and clean the throttle body, esp around the butterfly with a soft tootbrush and carb cleaner. Stick a rag down the throat to collect the dirt. Also check vacuum hose to brake booster to see if it's fully attached and no leaks.
Only codes related are 1294 Target Idle Not Reached. Had that before with in issue with my TCM....TCM seems to be behaving sine replacement with one from Flea Bay...going to go with the throttle body clean and the IAC clean as well, then I'll give an update.
Update, removed and replaced the throttle body with a 68mm one (was a planned future project). New to me TB was cleaned within an inch of its life and also cleaned the IAC really carefully. Re-assembled and started it up and no change. Ran out and grabbed a new IAC (Delphi from AutoZone) and re-installed it, fired it up and still no change. Checked for vacuum leaks with spray cleaner and none were found...any other suggestions? Currently no check engine codes...kinda stumped at this moment.
Reset the computer. Disconnect the battery, turn on headlights, turn off headlights, reconnect battery. Turn ignition to "On", not start, count to 10, don't touch ANYTHING. THEN start the truck. If things are working right, it should figure out idle right quick. If it doesn't, somethin' else is going on. Wouldn't be the first time the IAC drivers in the PCM have failed. I would expect that to set a P0505 code though.....