Rear Freezer Plugs - Bell Housing
#1
Rear Freezer Plugs - Bell Housing
I think I have a leak where the freezer plugs are and where they meet at the motor/transmission. I know I’ll need to pull the transmission down. But before I do that, how do I ensure 100% the leak is there? I see coolant dripping on the two bell bolts but not in the weep hole. The other day, I must have leaked coolant and it almost over heated. Saw a big puddle under it. I tried to do a pressure test in the cooling system but it couldn’t hold pressure. I inspected the whole engine and couldn’t find a leak. 2000 4.7 Thanks!
#2
Refill the cooling system, and re-pressure test. If it's coming out between engine and trans, (and make sure it isn't coming off the heads, mirror and flashight come in handy here....) then you have to drop the trans. Keep in mind though, that if one is leaking, all the rest are not far behind, so, replace as many as you can get to.
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2000 SLT (11-29-2023)
#3
Refill the cooling system, and re-pressure test. If it's coming out between engine and trans, (and make sure it isn't coming off the heads, mirror and flashight come in handy here....) then you have to drop the trans. Keep in mind though, that if one is leaking, all the rest are not far behind, so, replace as many as you can get to.
Can I just remove the inspection plate to really look at if the leak is coming from that area? And how filled does the coolant system need to be to pressure test it? Mine was at the Full line and all I could hear was a faint air leak, no coolant bubbling or leaking, on the driver’s side about halfway down.
Any tips on removing the transmission? I’ve never done one but have friends to assist in the muscling.
#4
Refill the cooling system, and re-pressure test. If it's coming out between engine and trans, (and make sure it isn't coming off the heads, mirror and flashight come in handy here....) then you have to drop the trans. Keep in mind though, that if one is leaking, all the rest are not far behind, so, replace as many as you can get to.
#5
Run the engine with the radiator pressure cap off till the thermostat cycles at least once, then make sure it is actually full. Shut it off, pressure test. See where the coolant is coming from. If there is a lot of air space, you will be pumping a LOT before you start to build pressure, and if the leak is above the coolant level in the block, all you will get is air. Make sure your pressure tester actually SEALS to whatever it is you are plugging it into as well.
The kits should have all the correct sizes.... at least, you would like to think so.
The kits should have all the correct sizes.... at least, you would like to think so.
#6
Run the engine with the radiator pressure cap off till the thermostat cycles at least once, then make sure it is actually full. Shut it off, pressure test. See where the coolant is coming from. If there is a lot of air space, you will be pumping a LOT before you start to build pressure, and if the leak is above the coolant level in the block, all you will get is air. Make sure your pressure tester actually SEALS to whatever it is you are plugging it into as well.
The kits should have all the correct sizes.... at least, you would like to think so.
The kits should have all the correct sizes.... at least, you would like to think so.
#7
Run the engine with the radiator pressure cap off till the thermostat cycles at least once, then make sure it is actually full. Shut it off, pressure test. See where the coolant is coming from. If there is a lot of air space, you will be pumping a LOT before you start to build pressure, and if the leak is above the coolant level in the block, all you will get is air. Make sure your pressure tester actually SEALS to whatever it is you are plugging it into as well.
The kits should have all the correct sizes.... at least, you would like to think so.
The kits should have all the correct sizes.... at least, you would like to think so.
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#8