Hello all!

I live in the Chicago area and it's cold and snowing. I noticed that my '98Durango heat is less than warm (almost cold) in idal. When driving, it gets warmer (not hot). The temp gauge stays at the same temp always; temperturedoes not fluctuate at all. I did do the old cardboard in front of the radiator....no differance. I have checked all fluids and for leaks, all is good. What could be the problem?

Thank you all for your help!

Chitown[sm=americanasmiley.gif]

 

I would try flushing your heatercore. here is a post on how to do it.

https://dodgeforum.com/m_640588/tm.htm

 

Sounds like Thermostat is not opening, but I think there is more to it than that. Lets go through my steps from the HAYNES manual.

Troubleshooting, Page 0-23 section 26. POOR COOLANT CIRCULATION.

1. Inoperative water Pump. A quick test is to pinch the top radiator hose closed with your hand while the engine is idling, then let it loose. You should feel the surge of coolant if the pump is working properly.

2. Restriction in the cooling system. Drain, flush and refill the system If necessary, remove the radiator and reverse flush.

3. Water pump Drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly

4. Thermostat Sticking (See header)

5. Drivebelt incorrestly routed, causing pump to turn backward.(Yes it is easier than it sounds to put a belt on backward, just put on the wrong side of a pulley, tensioner etc...

Of all the above possibilities, the easiest and cheapest to start with are Thermostat, (Don't forget thegasket and sealant, depending on mileage, you may also consider replacing the sensor. After that if you are forced to replace the water pump, then if not done in the last 2-3 years, then I would recommend replacing the hoses and factory clamps with band clamps, you know the screw on radiator hose clamps.

So to recap, 1. Thermostat, 2. DRAIN/REVERSE FLUSH/REFILL 3. WATER PUMP There is a remote possibility that you may have to do all three, but start simple. I say test all of them but in order of replacement then the above. Logic: Drain/reverse/refill will most likely have to be done when pump is replaced, or at least should be. If you do the DRAIN/REVERSE FLUSH/REFILL and it isnt the problem you might lose some coolant unless you can recover most of it and reuse with the water pump replacement. Good luck, honestly I say start with theromostat first, since temp gauge isnt moving, sounds like thermostat isnt opening. Other forumeeters may jump in and feel free to help.


Steve

 

Thanks for the quick replies!

I will try the thermostat first...I hope this is the fix. I will let you all know what fix was.

Thanks again,

chitown

 

Here is an update. I changed the thermostat out today.....same problem. I did notice that both hoses goingto the heater core are hot and the top radiator hose is hot, but the bottom radiator hose is cold. This should be hot also, right? The fluid is flowing, so I ruled out the water pump.

I guess I will take it to the dealer. I don't have the room to drain the system to do a reverse flush/refill. I am also going in for back sugery this week...had a friend do todays work (thanks dude).

Laters,

chitown

 

You said that your temperature is not fluctuating, but what temp is it usually at? Right around 195? If so, I would flush the heater core and see if that helps your situation.

 

Why would the lower radiator hose be cold?

I have always thought if both hoses going to/from heater core were hot, fluid was going through it?

Thanks!

 

If the hose coming out of the heater core is cold, then you have a blockage in the heater core. You will want to flush it ASAP as this is putting added pressure on your water pump.

 

All hoses are hot, but the lower radiator hose. This one is cool to the touch while the rest are hot.

Thanks.

 

Sounds like you might have a blockage of some kind in your radiator. Try flushing it out both ways and see if there is any debris.