I have a 1996 intrepid with the 3.3 engine. For the past week these problems have arrised. I believe they are all relatred. First, the windshield washer fluid came on and after checking it, I found it to be fine(full, works and everything). The connections were fine also. Second, I noticed that my interior lights weren't as bright as usual. I checked the alternator and battery voltage(fine also). Third, I smelled battery acid. The battery was boiling but not overcharging. I switched the battery and alternator anyway. The new battery is doing the same thing. I am now on a third battery(same thing). Also when I put the batteries in another car, they still boil and swell if left running. Fourth, last night the car shut off while driving. I noticed that the fuel filter wasnt making its sound at start up. A quick check revealed an engine control fuse under the hood. Repaced that and fuel pump works. The car ran fine but the other problems were still there. I let it idle for 10 minutes or so, and it shut off after dying slowly like it wasn't getting enough fuel. Now it won't start up. It cranks and ignites but won't run. I replaced the ignition module with a spare I had. I have a feeling a wire is touching somewhere but I can't find it yet. Nothing was worked on recently to account for mechanic error. I'm the mechanic anyway, and I'm a perfectionist Today I replaced the crank position sensor and it still won't start. Tomorrow I will locate and change the pcm if this car has one. I have a feeling thats going to be it. If anyone has any suggestions feel free to tell me. Thanks

 

Well, I changed the pcm and tried another crank position sensor as well as another ignition module, fuel filter and cam sensor just for thrills. Still cranks, and I can hear the fuel pump but it still won't run. The fuses are all still good and haven't had to replace any. I am going to take off the intake tomorrow and check for exposed or melted wires possibly touching.

 

Today, I tried disconnecting the egr and map sensors. I did them at different times and tried starting the car(Thanks Kurts2, I read some of your previous answers). I did the key trick and got codes 43, and 55. 43 is multiple cylinder misfires. This could have been picked up when the engine bogged just before it shut off. Also remember I got the car to run before it bogged again while idling after 10 minutes or so. I haven't been able to start it since.

 

why are you changing sensors when it's pretty obvious you need to be focusing on the main power supply. your battery issue could be a high draw on the power circuit. Do the main cables feel hot/warm? the boiling can be cause by massive discharging then sulfating and has enough surface charge for cranking... which then in another car will overheat on charge. A load test or specific gravity measure will show that possibility.

Diagnosing electrical problems on the internet is HIGHLY guessing. Without having quality diagnostic tools and physically seeing the problem in person any advice is purey speculative

 

Thank you. I guess this means that I have two problems then. I still haven't found out why the car only cranks. Thats why I'm eliminating the sensors that could cause this. You are right, the cables did seem to be hotter than usual before this happened. I even removed an inch of positive cable at the alternator and added a new connector because of the hot brittle wiring that I saw. Had no problems since doing this a couple of months ago. While the wire end was not turning red, I still thought that it was a little above temp recently. Also, any speculative help is welcome before I put the car in the shop. Thats one of the reasons that I love this website. Again, thank you for the advice.

 

could be the PCM was spiked or compremised in this failure.

 

I seen a similar problem at the shop I work at, in a Concorde turns out there was a short in the starter, and creating a draw, but the main culprit was in the climate control module. We had two of our top techs work on it for a week before one of them did some research on the symptoms. Turns out that little control panel on the dash controls more than just heat/ac. All of the controls go through that box. Again without equipment and seeing it this is only a guess.

 

Thanks everyone! I found the problem yesterday. I replaced the main wire that plugs into the ignition module today. So far so good. No flickering of the lights. No battery hissing or anything. I drove the car for a half hour as a little test. So far so good. I don't know what caused the wire problem. Its well protected from the heat. I made sure to improve the protection while I was there.

 

Ok, here goes. The car is still running. I did notice that the power door locks no longer locked when reaching 20mph. I switched back to my old pcm and everything was fine for about an hour. The car was running fine and the locks automatically locked. Then the windshield washer fluid light came on again. I drove right back home and put the other pcm back in. An hour later the light went out. It didn't return on for 2 days. Now it comes on after about 10 minutes of driving. I'm going to get another pcm soon. Any one know how important are body control modules?

 

I have a 1996 Dodge INtrepid 3.5l and the spark plugs are not sparking, The check engine light came on a couple days before and the egr code was the problem. I have been told that has nothing to do with why the car wont start. It acts like it wants to turn over, but when we took the spark plugs out and put them to a ground they didnt spark. Any ideas..This car is all I have in college and could realkly use some help. Thanks!