what data is the scanner showing like battery voltage seen at the pcm?

 

it looked like 13.7 if i seen the right one not my scanner. the tps was 12. the timing advance was jumping from 4 to 12 and anywere in between.

 

there's all kinds of things that you need to look at, analyze and compare to acceptable perameters. tps should be 0% at idle or less than 1v (usually around .6v or so) timing should be fairly steady at idle... going off memory 10-20°

 

The timing was jumping around from 4 to 12 and the tps I'm sure was at 12 as well. What should I be looking for the sensor readings and unsure what each one was as it was b1 and b2 for them it looked like they were 20 on one side and -6 on other side for both. After I changed cam sensor it runs and doesn't die anymore can drive it rough idle and stumple under load. Its about 4000 rpm and a load before it will set a code. Can idle and run the whole time like crap and give no code. How do I test the crank sensor it was 2 different used ones I tried. Cam sensor was new couldn't find a crank sensor in my town. I tested one it is 690 on the midle wire and the one the orange would go to. Is that with in speck and that is out just holding the sensor and man I really thank you for your help. I want this fixed and out of my hair lol. The flex plate wouldn't cause it to act like this new sensors wouldn't allow it to run better then at first. Also an altenator that puts out 13.8 isn't low on this car and causing all these problems voltage regulator doesn't get shot in these cars often does it?

 

1391 is intermitant loss of cam or crank sensor. Because it is more prevelent at higher rpm's I'd check pin retension and ohm out the wires and grounds. Make sure all connections are cleaned with an electric cleaner and there is no oil or other gunk. This may be as simple as a loose connection. If you still have trouble determining which sensor side is to blame (assuming it's wire related), you can always jump the wires from the sensors to the PCM

 

Also, could you clarify a bit on your previous post? What was 20 and -6 for both? I assume you mean bank 1 & bank 2 signals but for what? Also when you said :

"Cam sensor was new couldn't find a crank sensor in my town. I tested one it is 690 on the midle wire and the one the orange would go to. Is that with in speck and that is out just holding the sensor".

Do you mean you ohmed out a crank sensor out of the vehicle from the orange wire to somthing and got 690 ohms? I wasn't sure you mention Cam or crank, where you ohmed the orange wire to, and what scale ohm range were you on?

I'm fairly sure the cam and crank sensors are suposed to have a similar ohm value, so you can ohm all of them (both suspected good and bad ones) to try and see what is going on. Don't forget though, these results may have limmited signifigance because the resistance value can change under operating conditions (eg heat and vibration).

 

Ya i am going to the wrecker and take out a harness and try that see if it helps it out. wish i had more spare time to work on this car but i dont. hope that is the issue. i am getting flustered and lost in this.

 

It was the harness that needed to be replaced. so glad it is fixed and running.

 

Great!

 

Thanks for all the help. would highly recomend this site to anyone. hope at some point there is someone i can help with something as well.