tach
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 210
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From: Virginia beach Virginia
tach
i just bought a new tach with shift light and i hooked it ^ to the blue and gray tracer wire and it still doesnt work anybody have any idea y?is there a wire i have to cut or sumthing
Legend
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 9,112
Likes: 1
From: Spring, TX
RE: tach
Then you did something wrong. Here are some instructions...
TOOLS...
1. -> Flat head screw driver
2. -> 12 Guage Wire (Multi Colored, Red/Black/Green prefered)
3. -> Wire Crimps, Wire Stripper, Electrical Tape(Or crimp caps)
4. -> Bolts / Nuts, or Straps.
5. -> Two hands and some Pepsi!
YOUR TACHOMETER MOUNTING LOCATION
When placing your tach, make sure you place it where it is easily viewed, not in the way of your hands or vision. I placed the 5 inch monster tach with shift light that I purchased where the defroster is that hit's the windsheild(With the little boxes in the top of the instrament panel, this way no holes was needed to be drilled.)
-- Please note, this information was for the tachometer I purchased and installed, but the wiring should be the same for most tach's, be sure to check the owners manual before proceeding. --
CALIBRATION
~ V-8 => No adjustment needed.
~ V-6 => Clip brown wire loop only.
~ 4 cylinder => Clip brown and orange wire loop's only.
WIRING
White Wire => 12 Volt Dash Light
Red Wire => 12 Volt Ignition Switch
Black Wire => Good Engine Ground
Green Wire => Coil or Electronic Igintion
--- INSTALLATION --
STEP ONE...
I used a flat head screw driver to pop off the very top peice of the console, so I could see the instrament panel screw's, and all that good **** that it was hiding, tweeters, all the good ****.
STEP TWO...
I used 3 straps and mounted the tach where i wanted it, ran the strips threw each side, and strapped it down, and one in the back to keep it from bouncing, and it held good as ****, and keep in mind, no drilled holes (Take the top peice that you popped up with the screw driver totally out of the car while mounting to give you percise room and ****.)
STEP THREE...
This is where the tricky **** comes into play..
1. I took the 12 Volt Dash Light(WHITE WIRE),
and 12 VOLT IGNTION SWITCH(RED WIRE), and I stripped them butt *** naked on the ends, and used a crimp cap to keep them together comming out of the tachometer.
2. I got a wire and ran it to the negative post on the battery to ensure good engine ground.
3. I removed the cover to expose the spark plug's, and the coil plug, removed the coil plug and looked for a grey wire with a blue strip on it, and I stuck the wire in the hole in the plug and shoved it back into the coil.
4. I ran the COIL WIRE and the GROUND WIRE through the firewall and quickly hide the wires and ran them up to the top of the instrament panel close to where the mount was going to be located.
5. I ran the RED/WHITE wires to the fuse box, removed number 16 (RADIO FUSE), and wrapped the wire around once, and plugged back in, this makes the tachometer get power when the switch is turned on as long as the radio is on, and mine is always on if ya get my drift.
6. I put the top part that i removed back in, wired up the tach color of the wires to the wires comming out of the tach.
7. Put top peice back in place(OPPOSITE OF REMOVAL.)
-- Tachometer Calibration F.A.Q. --
What if the tachometer is moving, but it's not showing the right RPM's?
Well this means that your calibration is not right... Make sure you have the switch flipped, or the jumper's set correctly on the tach. If they are set that mean's you need to fine tune your tach by removing the back casing off of it and adjusting the odometer looking thing...This is the dodge neon code I found online(it work's for me!!)
? - Present Dodge/Plymouth Neons
Need to be set for 1 and 2 pulse per rev and also 5 volt square wave.
Code => 1 and 2 pulse per rev and 5 VOLT SQUARE WAVE.
1. -> Flat head screw driver
2. -> 12 Guage Wire (Multi Colored, Red/Black/Green prefered)
3. -> Wire Crimps, Wire Stripper, Electrical Tape(Or crimp caps)
4. -> Bolts / Nuts, or Straps.
5. -> Two hands and some Pepsi!
YOUR TACHOMETER MOUNTING LOCATION
When placing your tach, make sure you place it where it is easily viewed, not in the way of your hands or vision. I placed the 5 inch monster tach with shift light that I purchased where the defroster is that hit's the windsheild(With the little boxes in the top of the instrament panel, this way no holes was needed to be drilled.)
-- Please note, this information was for the tachometer I purchased and installed, but the wiring should be the same for most tach's, be sure to check the owners manual before proceeding. --
CALIBRATION
~ V-8 => No adjustment needed.
~ V-6 => Clip brown wire loop only.
~ 4 cylinder => Clip brown and orange wire loop's only.
WIRING
White Wire => 12 Volt Dash Light
Red Wire => 12 Volt Ignition Switch
Black Wire => Good Engine Ground
Green Wire => Coil or Electronic Igintion
--- INSTALLATION --
STEP ONE...
I used a flat head screw driver to pop off the very top peice of the console, so I could see the instrament panel screw's, and all that good **** that it was hiding, tweeters, all the good ****.
STEP TWO...
I used 3 straps and mounted the tach where i wanted it, ran the strips threw each side, and strapped it down, and one in the back to keep it from bouncing, and it held good as ****, and keep in mind, no drilled holes
(Take the top peice that you popped up with the screw driver totally out of the car while mounting to give you percise room and ****.)STEP THREE...
This is where the tricky **** comes into play..
1. I took the 12 Volt Dash Light(WHITE WIRE),
and 12 VOLT IGNTION SWITCH(RED WIRE), and I stripped them butt *** naked on the ends, and used a crimp cap to keep them together comming out of the tachometer.
2. I got a wire and ran it to the negative post on the battery to ensure good engine ground.
3. I removed the cover to expose the spark plug's, and the coil plug, removed the coil plug and looked for a grey wire with a blue strip on it, and I stuck the wire in the hole in the plug and shoved it back into the coil.
4. I ran the COIL WIRE and the GROUND WIRE through the firewall and quickly hide the wires and ran them up to the top of the instrament panel close to where the mount was going to be located.
5. I ran the RED/WHITE wires to the fuse box, removed number 16 (RADIO FUSE), and wrapped the wire around once, and plugged back in, this makes the tachometer get power when the switch is turned on as long as the radio is on, and mine is always on if ya get my drift.
6. I put the top part that i removed back in, wired up the tach color of the wires to the wires comming out of the tach.
7. Put top peice back in place(OPPOSITE OF REMOVAL.)
-- Tachometer Calibration F.A.Q. --
What if the tachometer is moving, but it's not showing the right RPM's?
Well this means that your calibration is not right... Make sure you have the switch flipped, or the jumper's set correctly on the tach. If they are set that mean's you need to fine tune your tach by removing the back casing off of it and adjusting the odometer looking thing...This is the dodge neon code I found online(it work's for me!!)
? - Present Dodge/Plymouth Neons
Need to be set for 1 and 2 pulse per rev and also 5 volt square wave.
Code => 1 and 2 pulse per rev and 5 VOLT SQUARE WAVE.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
RE: tach
All I did was cut the grey and blue wire, hook up the wire on the tach, mine was green. I soldered it just for comfort. I then ran the red wire from the tach to my fuse box and wired it in to a fuse that powers up when the key is turned on. then the black wire I just ran it to the ground. Mine works fine.
Amateur
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Canada
I'm having the same problem as civiceater88. I bought an aftermarket tach for my 1996 dodge neon and hooked the green wire up to the grey/light blue wire behind the cluster but it still isn't working. Anyone have any ideas?
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Amateur
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Canada
My buddy gave me a 2" tach that he had in his neon for 5$. He said he bought it off ebay its the Spec-D Tuning one thats like $30. It's basically brand new. I know it works because I saw it when he had it in his car.
So all the wires on the gauge are hooked up? Power, ground, and signal? I would use a multimeter and see if your getting a volt reference on the signal wire, also check the positive and negative.
