how hard would it be to relocate the battery to the trunk? and what all would you need? I know i would need to make or buy a battery tray, and some wires. but what gauge?

 

i used 2o guage on mine, it is all in my log.
real easy to do. but if you intend on taking it to the track, you will be required to have a kill switch.

 

did u run 2 wires or one. and if u ran one how did u split it off for the starter and the fuse box. im thinking of doing this to my car to

 

dont u have to run too wires? and splice them into the negative and into the positive and then put the connectors at the end? or is my logic flawed?

 

no u can take the negative off the battery and just ground it to the body in the trunk. the only reason people runt o is cuz the need one for the starter and one to go to the fuse box under the hood.

 

if you look at my log, you will see what i did.

4o guage wire from the + of the battery to the fuse box under the hood (relay box for you slow folks ) i then soldered the original end of the battery + wire that used to hook to the fuse box, to the end of the 4o wire to be abe to hook the newly located battery to the original fuse relay box. once that is done, you can take the original + cable from the starter that used to hook to the oem located battery, and hook it right up to the fuse/ relay box. the - wire i used a rear seat belt bolt that used to hold a rear seat belt and put a connector on the end and ran the bolt through it to the chassis.
if you decide to run a kill switch, you will need to run from the + of the battery, to the switch, then from the switch, to the relay box. my kill switch did not kill the car, so instead of trying to figure that nightmare out, i just ran an inline toggle switch to the alternator, when i kill the alternator, and the kill switch to the battery is flipped off, my car dies instantly, if the alt switch is left on, my car still runs, and if i kill the alt and leave the chassis kill switch on, my battery light comes on and the car runs off the battery til my kill switch is turned back on.
i have pics, you just have to flip through the pages of my build.

 

2 15' pices of 4 gauge. 1 4' piece of 2 gauge. 2 new battery terminals. 6- 4 gauge lugs 2- 6 gauge lugs

run a 15' piece from the positive to the battery to the fuse box, use a lug to connect them. cut the starter wires off of the old battery wires. run a 15' pice from the positive to the positive wire on the starter, use lugs to connect them. cut ur battery box down to fit your air filter. ground the negative in the trunk. connect the wires the the new terminals. bolt down the battery box and connect everything up. done!

 

get a set of thick battery cables i got 2 gauge, marine battery terminals, copper crimp on ends they crimp on and have just a ring.and a marine battery box from walmart. cut theclamps off the jumper cables and split the wires down the center.takethe copper end and crimp themon bothends of wiresnow run the wire under the carpet and thru the firewall and connect it to the fusebox under th hood i just peut it on and used the old nut to hold it on if you do it right, you can put the little shield back on to. now youll see you have lie 2 foot of slack still, cut that off, and put some copper ends on there too. now use that bolt you see under the back seat to ground it out. the just connect it all to battery now, and walla.... Ive seen it done many ways but this is the easiest way ive done it. 20,000 miles no problems. i prefer the marine terminals cause they haev wing nuts to hold down the wires so you can just disconnect them with your fingers