I have used 2 different valve cover gaskets (1 lt blue 1 dark blue. Dont remember the brands but the light blue one stretches first time it is used. With the dark one you can take it off and on without any stretching problems if you are doing any adjusting or have to take valve cover off for any reason.

 

no, no, that needs to be done at a machine shop. you can really mess something up if you don't have the correct tools and or know what you are doing.
just use some brake clear or something like that.
if you are going to take it to get it checked for trueness and cracks(highly recommened)they should clean it up for you

 

Why would lapping the valves have to be done at the machine shop? That is the easiest thing to do on it! The only thing you need is a valve lapping tool and some grinding compound, then you just drop the valve into the head and work it back and forth until there is a consistent shiny surface on the valve and the seat, then you know it is good. If you know there was nothing wrong with the head before you took it off, just clean it up and re-use it, it is a good idea to have it checked for cracks but still, you can save some money if you know it was fine before. And if there are 180,000 miles, I would rebuild it while you have it all torn down, especially since you will be putting all this compression on the old bottom end after the re seal, it could throw a rod.

 

and dont forget be VERY careful not to get compound on the valve stem and up in the guide!
once you scratch that up it lets oil past it.

 

The main reason I took the head off was the possibility of a bent valve when the timing belt broke. I was thinking, the valves would only be bent if smacked by the piston when the valves stopped moving. Correct? Well, the piston heads are quite covered with carbon, and I didn't see any place where the carbon was nicked(from where it would have smacked a valve). Nor, can I see any nicks, bents on the face of the valve. So, is that a pretty good sign that the valve's didn't get hit, or am I just overanalyzing in a hope for less new parts.
Also, is it normal for the camshaft to be HARD to turn and once it makes a little more than 1/8 of a rotation that it will spring the rest of the way to equal to 1/4 turn then be hard again?
Finally, I'm researching valve lapping and it seems pretty simple. So, how many people are against or for doing this? And should Autozone/Advanced/etc have the lapping tool and paste, or where from? Found this how to video: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/9...7001816184.htm
Thanks again everyone.

Found the handheld tool and compound on Napa's site, but there are two types of compounds, one says grease mix and the other says water mix. Which is the one I should use if I do this?

 

thats normal for the cam to turn that way, you opening valves then the spring pressure as they go back closed shoves the cam forewards.
if theres no marks in the carbon then you didnt smack the valves.
heres what valve marks look like , its a different engine but you can clearly see where they hit.
if they touch hard enough to do any damage theres always some kind of marks in them. ive seen valve dents in pistons without bent valves also.

[IMG]local://upfiles/37714/9219AA6D37824006BDA7F20A8FCEAF44.jpg[/IMG]

 

Yeah, if you didnt smack the valves then you are ok. I got my lapping tool at autozone for six bucks and the compound for like two, so that isnt that much. Then you will need to get the valve spring loaner tool from them so you can take the retainers out. Then clean everything and take scotch bright to the machined surfaces, do not use a wire brush on the machined surfaces.

 

Sorry about that just woke up that morning and read the quote wrong.

 

i have the means to clean heads other than the regulkar do it urselfer................. i bead blast and hot tank them. as for grinding the valves............. well if it ahs 180k on it i gaurantee the exhaust valves are going to be pretty gnarly and are going to need to ahve a vlave job. mine were when i did my rebuild but i didnt have the funds to get a vlave job done so i just laped them like everyone was saying above and i havent have ny problems since then............ cars runs awseome by the way. and i would also recommend a rebuild while its apart if its got that much milage on it. u can get complete o/h kits for about 400.00 or so.

 

Ok, so dude, personally, I would get re-ring kit for it off ebay, get a flex-hone and rebuild it, then you know it is good, while you have it torn down it is worth it. Do what I said on the head, that is what a machine shop will do to it if you take it in for a valve job, I just did all that on my chevy 350 and it took me about 4 hours a head, which isnt too bad to clean it, clean all the valves, springs, retainers, lap the valves, and re-assemble it. Here is a pic of what my heads looked like before and after: