ok so i got the old 134a in there. when i hook up the bottle of the new 134a, i cant push the button. could it be possible to have to take out the old stuff. then put in the nwe can or can i just add the new can.? im confused their. idk why but when i put in the attachement it goes but it does go in. idk why.

 

JDM-
A/C is fairly simple stuff, but you need a gauge set to do any meaningful diagnosis. Probably the best hundred bucks you will ever spend on a tool. If any A/C shop tries to tell you that R12 is "illeagal" or they only do conversions, or "the law" says they must convert - RUN AWAY. They are lying sacks of**** that do not know what they are doing.

Your car is likely low on refrigerant. It has a leak. On ,odelswith springlock connectors this is not a big deal, but the proper steps should be taken to make the repair.

A/C systems like yours circulate oil with all of the refigerant. If one leaks out, the other does too. Simply replacing the lost refigerantwill eventually run the sysyem out of oil - with very expensive results so given the age of your vehicle, here are the steps I would take to repair it:

Leak test. Even though there is not enough charge to trigger operation, there is probably enough gas left to locate leaks with an electronic sniffer. Any good A/C shop should have a sniffer, and can test your system for leaks.

2) Seperate every connection, flush every hose & component EXCEPT THE COMPRESSOR to bare metal. The compressor can be flushed, here is the link to some information .. http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...threadid=12050 You can flush the condensor & evaporator on the car, use plenty of fast evaporation solvent like brake cleaner as a final flush. Use plenty of shop air to remove ALL of the flushing agents.


3) Replace the liquid line & accumulator - obviously you do not need to flush the old parts (or the new ones!). The liquid line on your car also holds the expansion device, and theonly filter in the system.

4)Clean the springlocks and remove the garter springs, (clean the recesses with a brush & solvent) Blow them clean. Reassemble all of the connections with new "O" rings. Be sure to lubricate the fittings before you reassemble them.

5) Add the oil charge. Now that your system is completely clean, you can add back a fresh charge of oil, in the correct ammount. Too much oil is bad for cooling, and can raise pressures. Too little, and you will sieze the compressor.

6) Vaccuum. Often misunderstood, evacuating the system is very important. The vaccuum removes all of the non-condensibe gas (atmosphere) in the system. It also causes any free moisture to boil off.

7)The pressure rise you see is various things giving up moisture or solvents. Now it is time for more serious vaccuum. Pull down to 400~800 microns, and hold there for 15 minutes. Close the valves, and watch for any pressure rise. If the pressure rises quickly, you have a leak. Do NOT jumper out the low pressure switch to charge!.

8) Adjusting the charge is usually done with a P/T chart, a thermometer, and a gauge set. You can maximize system performance this way. You should adjust the cycling switch as well. If you pull the connector off of the switch, there is a screw between the terminals. Using 1/4 turn increments, adjust the cut IN pressure to about 35psi.

Doing good A/C work is not difficult, if you simply pay attention to the details. You can get certified to buy refrigerants with a simple on-line test. If you are interested in owning good tools for the job, I suggestyou look into this kit here..http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?S...egory_Code=DIY .

Hope this helps,
Dr_KY slippin it to ya.

 

dammm, id love to do it my self like that. but i dont got time to do that. i do need to get the system evacuted, and the color of the dye is green, as far as i can tell there isnt a leak. but i maybe wrong. the bottle i bought has oil in it and can stop most small leaks too. (thats what it says on the can) but im guessing i need to get it evacuted and then recharge with my can, but im going to give up on this till my next paycheck lol

Thanks for all your help, i dont wana mess with ac too cause i here so much bad stuff if u mess up. i might as well wait till school starts then i can get the work done cheap by a friend in HVAC or in auto. this stuff to me is wayy to new.
Juan

 

It's best to take it to the pros then. Just don't get ripped off as I said.
Good luck

 

Whats the best way for getting money so he can take it to the shop?....lol we wouldnt need this handy forum if we all had money to take our car's to the shop

Sorry I'm a do it yourself kinda guy who is very broke...lol now you know where there comment came from

 

A better paying job would be a start.lol
When playing with something like AC it has to be done correctly if not then it can be very costly so don't just grab a can of that stuff and bang it in ( most of it wont go in anyway unless you make rom for it.). The instructions I gave will help anyone working from home to make the repair.

 

maybe the crackhead down the street, lol. no i understand. i gave up, i just wana get the CAI on my car then ill be a happy camper, maybe i can get mom to pay for AC. either way, thats the only thing worng with my car, except for some oil spotting, but o well. no big oil loses since i changed my valve cover gasket. thanks for your help guys. i thought i could do it but i cant.
Juan

 

first of all im just telling him to take it to a shop because if not done right you have wasted money and gotten no where and as for having the system reto fitted for 134 you dont have to worry on a neon because they never came with r12 ,they started putting 134 in cars in 92 neons came out in 95,also it would have been cheeper to retro fit it because 134 is a hell of alot cheaper then r12,i am a ase cert tech and cert in a/c work so i know what im talking about