Alright, got a pcm from spud, didn't do any good. I am still not getting any input from the computer via black/grey and blue/tan wires to the coil pack. I checked the voltage going into the crank sensor and it was good. Just as a refresher, I have had 3 different computers in it, two wiring harnesses, two coil packs, 4 different pig tails for the coil pack, new crank sensor, new cam sensor, no codes (scanner or key codes), turns over just fine, timing is dead on, gets fuel, gets 12v supply via green/orange center wire. I am completely f'n stumped. Please please please help me! Alright, with everyone on this forum as witnesses, anyone who figures out what my problem is I will send them $25 bucks through paypal!!

 

I think I am going to go tear down the passenger side of the motor and get the puller tomorrow, it will only take me about 30-45 minutes to reset the timing even though I do not think it is off, it is worth a shot. Any other suggestions?

 

do you try the failure-to-start test with the volt/ohm meter?

 

You may have tryed this but i figued i would post it for the poeple that dont know.




this is what my MM gives for no start pocedure

1. using a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) measure the the voltage for the negitive (-)batt terminal to the positve (+) terminal. the voltage should be at least 12.66. this amount of voltage is necessary for accurate inspection of the system.

2.Detach the ignition coil harness connector.

3.Connect a suitble test light to the B+ (battery voltage) terminal of the ignition coil electical connector and ground. The center terminal of the connector supply battery voltage.

4.Turn the key to the ON position. The test light should turn on then off. Leave the key in the ON position.
A. if the test light flashes momentairly ,the PCM gounded the ASD relay. Preceed to the next step.
B.if the test light did not flash. the ASD did not energize. this is caused by the relay or one of the relay circuits.

5.Crank the engine (if the key was placed intheOFF position in step 4. Turn the key to the ON wait till the light flashes once then crankthe engine.)
A.if the test light momentairly flashes during the cranking, the PCM is not reciveing camshaft/crankshaft position sensors signal.
B. for 1995 vehicles, if the light did not flash during craking, unplug the camshaft position sensor connector. Turn the key to the OFF position. Turn the key to theON position, wait for the test light to momentarily flash once, then crank the engine. if the light mementarily flashes the camshaft position sensor is shorted and must be replaced. If the light did not flash when the engine was cranked, the cause of the no start is either the crankshaft or camshaft position sensors 8 volt supply cuircuit to the crankshaft position sensor 5 volt output or gound circuits. Use DBR or equivilent scarn tool to test crankshaft position sensor and related ciruits.
C. for 96-99, if the light did not flash during cranking. unplug the crankshaft position sensor. Turn the key to the OFF position. Turn the key to theON position, wait for the test light to momentarily flash once, then crank engine. If the test light mementarily flashes the crankshaft position sensor is shorted and must be replaced. IF the light did not flash when the engine was cranked, the cause of theno start condition if eather the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor 8 volt supply circuit to the camshaft position sensor 5-volt output or ground. Use DBR or equivilent scan tool to test crankshaft position sensor and related circuit.

 

I had the same problem. No spark at all and everything was good. let it alone for a week. Fuel pump hoses got broke off it. Put new sending unit in and fired up. I thought it was bad timing. Because i did the timing. But after it got fuel it fired right over. I also hooked up a few other sensors on the tranny. If you can make any sense out of that maybe it will help you.

 

Thanks for the help guys, I got a headache right now 12 volt but that sounds like what I have been doing.

 

check the voltage at the pcm, not the coil. if power is going out but not being recieved...

 

Anyone else??

 

had samething, turned out to be a blown fuse under the hood for the fuel pump, talked to a freind who used to work in the local crys shop and he said it was a safty thing, if something went wrong with one system it would shut down the other, hop the helps, good luck.