on some miracle- my uncle towed my car back to his house. i now have it in a garage.

The car stopped running while driving up a hill.
It started to backfire a little and slow down at 45mph
It took 3/4 of a mile to stop all together and shut off
Then it would not start.

I just had a used head put on after my timing belt broke and destroyed the old one
I had a new timing belt, and all acc. belts put on the car.
The car had been very hard to start(you had to crank about 4-11 seconds)

I let it sit for 2 weeks
I let the pressure out of the fuel rail, and unplugged and re-plugged the injector electric wires one day.
The car started after cranking it for about 15 seconds. It came up very slowly from 0rpm to 1000rps while cranking to finally idle
If you pressed the gas, the motor would bog down. I tried to move the car, but it almost stalled immediately
It idled for about 1.5 - 3 minutes, then shut off on its own. It's back to not starting.

I don't have a puller, so I can't get the crank damper off to check the TDC mark on the crank and block.

I took the #1 spark plug out (and broke it) then touched a screwdriver to the top of the piston.
It seems to me that at TDC, the camgearsare off by one or two teeth. My uncle seems to think it's right on.

The car is getting fuel into the rail. It won't run, so I don't know how to check the psi accurately.

My dad thought it was the catalytic converter, so I detached it from the exhaust manifold(broke those bolts)
and the car still wouldn't start.

It turns over but won't start.

If it's not the timing - then it has to be fuel, spark, or air right? How can I check my injectors? How can I know that spark and fuel are positively right? I don't think it's an air flow issue at this point.

 

the plugs and wires only have about 5,000 miles on them, so I don't think its those. I need to get one more plug obviously though.

 

Sounds like the timing is off. I think there is an inspection hole in the timing cover. Set the piston at TDC and if you look through the hole, you should be able to see the timing marks on the head and cam gear. Did it ever run properly after the head work?

 

Huh, I thought I answered this already. Lol.


Deff. sounds like a fuel pump, that would explain why it took so long to start, then when you got it started for that brief second and you pressed the pedal, it died because there was not enough fuel pressure to feed the motor.

 

it ran ok after the head work, but felt a tiny tiny bit underpowered. it idled rough. guy told me it was cuz of my egr valve

so if its the fuel pump, have i burned up my injectors by cranking on it so much?

and.... will a fuel pump slowly fail? fuel does dump into the fuel rail. I just don't know if it's enough.

 

check your fuel pressure soundds like a bad fuel pump http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/fuel-...ayphotohostingthats how you test it accuratly yes you do get fuel to the rail but its not enough

 

Its probably a weak fuel pump or something is clogged in the line or filter.

The EGR is bogus, My EGR went down back inSeptember and the only thing that happened was I got a check engine light nothing else motor ran great and gas mileage was good. I blockedthe EGRoff and blocked the intake off but I still have the check engine light on lol. I'm going to remove that light in the cluster cuz I have a OBD-2 scanner and if the car runs like crap i'll check it. The EGR going badisn't going to do anything otherthan **** your computer off, the motor will run good weather EGR is good or Bad.

 

if the car is on, but not running, should there still be 40 something psi? I was just wondering if you can check that if the car isn't running.

 

walboro high volume pump from modern is cheaper than factory pump from autozone. the only mod i have is an atx tb and a k&n filter. am I going to hurt anything by getting the walboro pump now?

 

fule pressure should be approximently 49 PSI without the car running. if the pressure is too low, check the fuel pump inlet stainer and assure that its not clogged. if that checks out check for anincorrectly operating filter/regulator or fuel pump.

i would assume that the walbor needs a return line and a FPR for it to work the way its designed, but i dont know for sure. try it