like 178,000miles

 

don't need a digital dash for this one!
http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html

 

all neons 95-99 are obd2 compliant... you can do the key dance and pull codes... just turn the key off-on-off-on-off-on and be patiant it will start to blink... count the number of blinks it will have a short pause inbetween numbers so code 22 would be blink blink pause blink blink.... then long pauses seperate codes...

 

Ugh thats a lot. So does it rev up on you just driving down the road? or only at idle?

 

THERE IS NO NEED FOR ANY OBD TESTER PERIOD... JUST WATCH THE DAMN CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IT WILL FLASH OUT THE CODES...

ALL 1ST GENS ARE OBD2 COMPLIANT...

TRUE 95'S ARE OBD1 HOWEVER THEY DID INCLUDE THE PROGRAM FOR THE CODES... IT WILL WORK...

 

Codes that it gave me are as follows 12, 43, 43, 11, 11, 25, and 55 in that order. Couldn't Find that sticker yas where talking about it beeing obd I or II but i also noticed when i was looking around for those parts yas said about cleaning up real good that the coil pak on the one corner where the bolt is i see a crack. my dad keeps on insisting that its the oxygen sensor cause we had it in the shop to get the rack and pinion changed cause it was leeking power steering fuild at the nipple/seal of where the steering colum connects to. he told me that this spittin and sputtering realy started after this was changed but this stuff has always happened to me when i drove it and i am not hard or wreakless when i drive.

neways should i replace the coil pak since it has a crack or is that ok?

 

sounds lik eyou have alot wrong

43
Multiple cylinder misfire

Misfire cylinder No.1
Misfire cylinder No.2
Misfire cylinder No.3
Misfire cylinder No.4
Ignition Coil No.1 Primary Circuit
Ignition Coil No.2 Primary Circuit

11
no crankshaft Reference signal at Pcm
timing belt skipped a tooth
intermittent loss of cmp or ckp
misfire adaptive numerator at limit

25
Target idle not reached (+/-200rpm)
Vacuum leak (found iac full seated)

 

Hey TC. Well I'm in the middle of trouble shooting what sounds to be the same problem. Mines a 95 sport DOHC. Starts and runs fine for about 20mins. As soon as the engines been warm for about 10 mins it'll idle up and down from about 1000 to 3500. That'll go on for about 5 mins and then it misfires, looses power and pressing the throttle does zip, then stalls.Pulled the throttle body off and it had one of the part numbers the tsb said to replace so that was done. Cleaned the IAC (Idle Air Control) and it seems okay. Lastly is the TPS (Throttle position sensor). After I've run the car until it's doing it funky monkey bit I pulled both plugs off. With the sensor unplugged but the iac still plugged in it runs at a fast idle but is steady. As soon as the sensor is plugged back in it's back to the yoyo idle. For you it might just be a dirty throttle body and iac. Takes about 10 mins to pull it off and you can clean it up with an old toothbrush and some varsol (or gas). I'd clean it up first to see it it's just dirty. If you take the throttle body off take a look at the part number on the side of it. If it's one of these they were recommended to be replaced --- 4669540, 4669541, 4663077, 4669167, 4669246, 4669245, 5277745, 5277765, 4669032, 4669313 ---. It's worth a try anyway. You'll need a 13mm, 10mm and 8mm sockets and a small or med flat head screwdriver for the job. If it turns out after you've cleaned up your parts that the sensor is bad autozone has one for about 65.00 though you'll have to get someone behind the counter to confirm that the connector plug is the same as yours. The 95 and 96 seem to have had both round or flat pins. Unless you want to unwrap you're wiring harness and splice on a newer plug (the flat pin ones)you'd best make sure they give you the right one.

 

sounds like bad fuel pump

 

i doubt it the pump, if that was the problem the car woulnt start.

personly i would start with 43 clean the injectors and such