97 - 2.0 DOHC - While I am a reasonably skilled backyard mechanic I have virtually no 4 cylinder engine or timing belt experience. Is there a detailed explanation on how to do the job start to finish. I have heard 1 hour to 6 hours to complete the project. Cash is short - I just bought the car and NOW realize that at 113k I should do it before disaster strikes. I need the no frills 'how to' simply replace the belt.........

 

http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...00c1528007905b

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/showthr...highlight=neon

 

1 of the best ways to find out how to do it is to buy a haynes manual....then you will have detailed instructions and pictures

 

Replace the water pump and idler pulley as well.

 

Go to your local parts store and buy the Haynes manual, they cost around $15. Start reading it to familiarize yourself with the timing belt replacement procedure.
The hardest part is getting the damper/pulley off the crank because in their wisdom Mopar decided a press fit instead of an interference fit and key was the way to go. They saved the cost of machining a key slot in the crank, broaching or machining a slot in the pulley hub, and of course, the three cents a key would have cost them.
Be warned that you will need a really good hub puller as it takes quite a lot of pressure to get the pulley off.
If you decide to have the work done for you, get the Haynes manual anyway because it cover a lot of the stuff you can do.

 

yes the snap on blue point is the best way to go about pulling the Pully off with.

 

Is the Snap-on Blue Point (budget Snap-on) a universal puller or engine specific? I had to mix and match parts from two different brands and sizes of pullers to get a set up that fit safely. I also went to a hardware store and got several 12 mm bolts that fit so I wouldn't abuse the damper attaching bolt. I use a bolt that was longer than the stock one to get the damper back on the crank snout.


Also what ever you use lubricate the threads with a good grease or moly cam break in lube.

 

the snap-on puller uses a pushrod to push off of instead of the stock center bolt....and the puller is a specialty part....designed for use on mitsubishi and chrysler 4 cylinder engines...i have the model specification label out in the garage, but dont feel like going and digging for it.....

hell, i remove the center bolt....slap on the snap-on puller....and get on it for about 15 seconds with an impact wrench and the pulley falls right off

 

I got the puller from autozone, cost me nothing and had the pulley off in minutes.