Timing Belt Intimidation
#1
Timing Belt Intimidation
97 - 2.0 DOHC - While I am a reasonably skilled backyard mechanic I have virtually no 4 cylinder engine or timing belt experience. Is there a detailed explanation on how to do the job start to finish. I have heard 1 hour to 6 hours to complete the project. Cash is short - I just bought the car and NOW realize that at 113k I should do it before disaster strikes. I need the no frills 'how to' simply replace the belt.........
#2
#5
Go to your local parts store and buy the Haynes manual, they cost around $15. Start reading it to familiarize yourself with the timing belt replacement procedure.
The hardest part is getting the damper/pulley off the crank because in their wisdom Mopar decided a press fit instead of an interference fit and key was the way to go. They saved the cost of machining a key slot in the crank, broaching or machining a slot in the pulley hub, and of course, the three cents a key would have cost them.
Be warned that you will need a really good hub puller as it takes quite a lot of pressure to get the pulley off.
If you decide to have the work done for you, get the Haynes manual anyway because it cover a lot of the stuff you can do.
The hardest part is getting the damper/pulley off the crank because in their wisdom Mopar decided a press fit instead of an interference fit and key was the way to go. They saved the cost of machining a key slot in the crank, broaching or machining a slot in the pulley hub, and of course, the three cents a key would have cost them.
Be warned that you will need a really good hub puller as it takes quite a lot of pressure to get the pulley off.
If you decide to have the work done for you, get the Haynes manual anyway because it cover a lot of the stuff you can do.
#7
Is the Snap-on Blue Point (budget Snap-on) a universal puller or engine specific? I had to mix and match parts from two different brands and sizes of pullers to get a set up that fit safely. I also went to a hardware store and got several 12 mm bolts that fit so I wouldn't abuse the damper attaching bolt. I use a bolt that was longer than the stock one to get the damper back on the crank snout.
Also what ever you use lubricate the threads with a good grease or moly cam break in lube.
Also what ever you use lubricate the threads with a good grease or moly cam break in lube.
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#8
the snap-on puller uses a pushrod to push off of instead of the stock center bolt....and the puller is a specialty part....designed for use on mitsubishi and chrysler 4 cylinder engines...i have the model specification label out in the garage, but dont feel like going and digging for it.....
hell, i remove the center bolt....slap on the snap-on puller....and get on it for about 15 seconds with an impact wrench and the pulley falls right off
hell, i remove the center bolt....slap on the snap-on puller....and get on it for about 15 seconds with an impact wrench and the pulley falls right off