1st Gen Neon 1995 through 1999 Neons

Maybe Clutch, Not sure!!! :(

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Old 10-08-2008 | 11:37 PM
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Default Maybe Clutch, Not sure!!! :(

I'm not too big on the mechanics side of vehicles but I have to admit I've always wanted to. More on the body side unfortunately. But hopefully someone can help me out.

I recently had my 1998 Dodge Neon 2.0L SOHC 5 speed manual with 115,000 miles go through the dodge dealership to get the water pump. timing belt, and the tensioner replaced. Ever since then I've notices a loss in power just in the motor itself. A friend says its the clutch just from what he can hear.

Very rare but if I try to get on it, it will rev up like nothing is catching then eventually catch on after so many rpms(not really sure as I do not have a rpm tach, over 4 grand I'm sure)

I used to be able to climb hills like they were nothing and now its like its a Geo Metro or something just struggling to get halfway.

And if it is the clutch can someone direct me to the right one. I tried going through checkers auto online and having to use my vin # but its saying i have to buy the $100's more kit just to match the 11th digit in my vin.

Sorry if this is not enough information, but hopefully someone can get an understanding of what I'm talking about. If any more info is needed I will try my best to cough some up.

Once again thank you for your time.

Regards,
AWS-Grayrd
 

Last edited by awsgrayrd; 10-08-2008 at 11:39 PM. Reason: Forgot info.
  #2  
Old 10-09-2008 | 10:44 AM
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Do a stress test on your clutch. Go on a hill while u are moving. But it into 3rd or 4th gear. Then step on the gas. If the rpms rise without the tires gaining speed then the clutch is slipping. They need to know the vin for your car because they made 2 different clutches. The modular and non modular. If its the modular I recommend the F1 off ebay or a mopar High torque. Another sign of a bad clutch on a neon is how far out the pedal goes before the friction point. If it doesnt catch till its all the way out. Another sign of a bad clutch. Dotn forget a leaking seal will contaminate the clutch and also cause it to slip.
 
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Old 10-09-2008 | 09:37 PM
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Thanks I_Ride_Neon,

Your answer really helped. Especially the last suggestion with a leaking seal. I mean it happened in a matter of 2 weeks so I think that might be it. So I guess I will be replacing it all. I mean those other test you suggested failed big time. Unfortunately!

Couple things. I use this car as an everyday driver. I mean like 90 miles a day, Monday to Friday. For work and school. So I don't have much for time considering the fact I wake up at like 3:30am and don't get home until 11:30pm. What I'm trying to get at is...

How long can I go until I have the time/money to get the clutch replaced?

Is this an easy job to do yourself, for someone who know basics?

Where is the best(cheap) place to go to get this installed?
--Pep Boys or the Dodge Dealership.
I have a hookup at the dealership but the job above with the tensioner, water pump, and timing belt was a bit pricey.

Thank you for your time again and hope to hear from you soon.

Regards,
AWS-Grayrd
 
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Old 10-09-2008 | 10:03 PM
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Sorry for the double post. As mentioned above I have checked Checkers Auto and used there catalog to see what and how much a clutch would be for my vehicle.

After checking my VIN # the 11th Digit is "D" NOT "T"
I've noticed that the clutch I have looked up using my VIN # happens to be more expensive by like $100
Shown below is what is included in the kit.
Kit One: Click HERE --Fenco

Kit Two: Click HERE --Perfection Clutch
So if I'm reading both products correct my vehicle needs the modular clutch?

Regards,
AWS-Grayrd
 
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Old 10-09-2008 | 10:50 PM
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I paid $250 for labor on my neon for clutch change. That was modular. If you dont allow the clutch to slip while you drive it, then it could last a very long time. I would change it before winter if you get snow. Ways to keep the the clutch from not slipping. stay in lower gears up hills and dont push down on the gas past the slip point. Dont ride the clutch while taking off. Just get it out. Dont push on the gas until the clutch is engaged all the way when changing gears. Dealership prices are high. Working on neons is very simple. A haynes manual and a little help you can do anything. If you have the tools. It may be more expensive because its the modular clutch. Which is the clutch and flywheel as one piece. I didnt look at the links but thats what I assume.
 
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Old 10-09-2008 | 10:52 PM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-RA...mZ350106729011

I heard good things about these. And they are cheap. thats a modular clutch. The fenco also looks like a modular clutch. The perfection also looks to be a modular clutch. I am almost positive D is modular. google it fast. If so get the ebay one. Have a side shop put it in. Call around. You should be able to get it done for under $250 for sure. Make sure they dont charge you to machine the flywheel. Because the modular clutch doesnt need that. Dont forget to have them install the new throw out bearing also.
 

Last edited by I_Ride_Neon; 10-09-2008 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 10-13-2008 | 07:41 PM
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Okay so I'm buying the kit nearby in town from some place called the clutch doctor. And wondering if there is anything special that I need in order to replace my clutch. Tools and so on. Like I said earlier I know enough to get by with cars. That's probably why I stayed with welding.
Any tricks necessary. I will be putting it up on a hydraulic lift which will help a lot, but from there what? Some safe facts or can I get by with undoing certain things, short cuts.

Thank you for your time

Regards,
Aws-Grayrd.
 

Last edited by awsgrayrd; 10-14-2008 at 02:42 AM.
  #8  
Old 10-14-2008 | 04:21 AM
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no tricks, at least none that i can think of. if your car is on the lift make sure u have something else holding up the transmission while you remove the bolts... and while you're at it u mind as well replace the rear main seal (gasket in between the transmission and engine) costs like 14 bucks
 
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Old 10-18-2008 | 12:59 PM
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I'm installing this clutch right after work today and wondering if I would have to do anything to the flywheel. As explained above its a modular clutch. Some people say I would have to get it machined or grind it down or something. So im pretty confused on that part. Any clue? Answers?

I mean I should just take the cluch i have on now and replace it with the kit i just bought, correct?

Regards,
AWS-Grayrd
 

Last edited by awsgrayrd; 10-18-2008 at 01:08 PM.
  #10  
Old 10-18-2008 | 01:45 PM
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The modular clutch does NOT need to be machined. You will need no machine work with the modular clutch. Reason: The non modular clutches use the same flywheel each time. The flywheel usually is machined otherwise it will wear the clutch down fast and unevenly. The modular clutch comes as the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate as one piece. New. So no need for machine work.
 


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