1995 SOHC Oil light flickering
#21
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Sabin420,
You mentioned that you had a similar situation to mine in that your OP was fine at the start and then dropped? What was the root cause of your problem? You mentioned that the bearings got damaged, but you did not say what damaged them. Was your crank out of spec? Was your Oil pump slipping? Did you have blockages? What did you do to correct the problem?
You mentioned that you had a similar situation to mine in that your OP was fine at the start and then dropped? What was the root cause of your problem? You mentioned that the bearings got damaged, but you did not say what damaged them. Was your crank out of spec? Was your Oil pump slipping? Did you have blockages? What did you do to correct the problem?
#22
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there was some blockage in the crank passages from the rebuild...not a thurough cleaning job done by the company I got the engine from. The damage was minor scrapes in the crank that 1200grit sandpaper took out, along with scraped up bearings...I think they didn't use enough assembly lube and the bearing scrapings got into the crank. I knew I shoulda done a rebuild myself. I also had cylinders that wern't honed, and piston rings that were too small for the .090 over bore. Yeah, I suggest you check out the rod bearings...they will show you the extent of the damage the best being the last to get oil.
#23
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I finished my honey-do's around the house and got back to my project car. I decided to hell with it, I pulled the engine and tore it down. The real problem was NOT the oil pump, and NOT the oil filter. I guess that when it ran out of oil that first time after it was rebuilt, I had enough metal to metal contact that it started the process, and once I had driven it enough to wear it down the rest of the way, it became apparent. The tolerances for these newer cars is so fine that it does not take a lot to wreak an engine once something starts going wrong.
The new main bearings on the crank were completely wore down in some places to the underlying brass! Crank is being turned even as I write. The new rod bearings were also showing signs of wear already, so out they go too, and with the turning, I would have to replace them anyway.
I had the block re-inspected, and this time, they say that it was right at the bottom edge of being within spec, so I decided to have it bored anyway - maybe I'll get a little extra umph out of it.... so new pistons and rings too.
So, maybe next week when I get my block and crank back, I'll put it all back together and give it another go.
So far, I am up to about $1000 into my "free car". This accounts for everything I have bought for the car including two new tires, some mirrors, etc. But hey, when I'm done, I'll have a good gas mileage daily driver, with new brakes, new tires, cold air, super hot heat, new clutch, and COMPLETELY new engine and peripherials - all with no car payments for at least a good 2-3 years. While I am at it, I am even replacing the MT seals, and repacking the CV's with grease and new boots. Why not? They are sitting on my shelf in the garage, so better now then later eh?
The new main bearings on the crank were completely wore down in some places to the underlying brass! Crank is being turned even as I write. The new rod bearings were also showing signs of wear already, so out they go too, and with the turning, I would have to replace them anyway.
I had the block re-inspected, and this time, they say that it was right at the bottom edge of being within spec, so I decided to have it bored anyway - maybe I'll get a little extra umph out of it.... so new pistons and rings too.
So, maybe next week when I get my block and crank back, I'll put it all back together and give it another go.
So far, I am up to about $1000 into my "free car". This accounts for everything I have bought for the car including two new tires, some mirrors, etc. But hey, when I'm done, I'll have a good gas mileage daily driver, with new brakes, new tires, cold air, super hot heat, new clutch, and COMPLETELY new engine and peripherials - all with no car payments for at least a good 2-3 years. While I am at it, I am even replacing the MT seals, and repacking the CV's with grease and new boots. Why not? They are sitting on my shelf in the garage, so better now then later eh?
#25