even if the sensor thinks it is correcting the issue?

 

Hmmm...interesting ideas. I don't think I could have the O2 sensors backwards as I replaced them one at a time...also, the rear sensor has a much longer cord so the upstream wouldn't connect in the rear slot. But that's really thinking creative thinking! I wouldn't ever have thought of that.

Dunno much about the knock sensor, I'll let you guys figure that out.

As of yesterday, I replaced the fuel filter as my local mechanic suggested; nothing...

Tried to replace the TPS but after getting the damn throttle body out I couldn't get the sensor off! I'll have to let my mechanic handle that one, if you guys think it's a possible culprit. He insists its unlikely, but I'm not so sure...

Still getting the code, still eatin gas. Haven't messed with the EGR yet...

 

yes, the sensors in the TB suck because they use thred locking compound on them. I always worry about breaking them. I have broken some on a TB plate I had.

 

Locking compounds?? Good idea I guess. If I can't get my mechanic to change my sensor, I'm gonna just go buy a throttle body with sensors from a junkyard and install the while thing anew.

Question unrelated to the thread as a whole: Do any of you guys know how to disconnect the automatic transmission cable from the throttle body? I couldn't get it off, and didn't want to force it.

 

to disconnect the cable, i always pry on the back of the clip with a screwdriver popping the ball out of the hole in the clip.

I got an ATX throttle body, completely cleaned w/ working sensors. I picked it up for someone who ended up not needing it.

 

So haven't done anything to the car recently, fuel filter was last and I'm running out of money...

However, over the past couple days I've noticed a whining sound from the fuel pump (which was there when I first got the car but fairly quiet) has gotten louder. Seems to suggest the fuel pump is going out... How could my fuel economy be so terrible if my pump is dying, though? Could my pump be stuck on? If so, how does that explain the car throwing a "lean" code? I did get a pump relay code earlier, but it hasn't come back since I replaced the relay.

It just baffles me that the car says its running lean while I can literally watch the fuel gauge drop as I drive to the grocery store.

Also, my coolant is bubbling and the car leaks oil (i.e. head gasket). Can a blown head gasket cause lean running? I guess if somehow it was open to atmosphere or between cylinders?

Engine seems to run well enough. Jerks if I let off the accelerator, but it seems to be sloppy transmission rather than engine problems...

 

Oh yea, forgot to mention...no smoke. Some greyish black smoke a couple times after I reset the computer, but I assumed that was gas as the car reset the idle.

Regularly, the car does not smoke.