maybe water pump?
ok i just did a tranny swap in my car and i was driving it after a month without it. i drove it around and destroyed a honda civic , was not over heating, but when i got home i noticed that i was leaking a good amaount of coolant so i crawed under and saw its was driping from the oil filter. but then i looked and its looks like it was flowing from the water pump, flowing along side of the block and dripping off the oil filter. what would cause this to happen?
How many miles are on the car? Has the timing belt been changed and if so was the water pump changed at that time as recommended? The water pump on these has about the same life time as the timing belt, so if your around 100,000 miles it's due.
You either have a bad leak, or bad pump. Fill it back up, dry everything you can - use a hair dryer if you have too - run it till it gets good and warmed up, crawl around looking for leaks paying special attention to the top/bottom radiator hoses and heater hose lines. Do this both with the car running and not - because some leaks only show up when fully warmed up and running and pressured.
Now if you see water dripping out the bottom of the timing cover, then your pump needs to be replaced. That can happen if the water pump seals are getting weak allowing water to seep out of the "weep hole" in the water pump. That weaping lets you know it is time to replace the pump soon before it seizes up and causes even more damage - like snapping the timing belt and bending valves.......
Hopefully, you just have a bad hose or clamp. Good luck.
Now if you see water dripping out the bottom of the timing cover, then your pump needs to be replaced. That can happen if the water pump seals are getting weak allowing water to seep out of the "weep hole" in the water pump. That weaping lets you know it is time to replace the pump soon before it seizes up and causes even more damage - like snapping the timing belt and bending valves.......
Hopefully, you just have a bad hose or clamp. Good luck.
yea i knew about the weep hole but i thought that only chevy had those. but it makes sence now and btw it is the weep hold. the only problem im having is getting the stupid crank pulley off.
This is WAY easier then you think and don't do the heat and beat BS to put it back on either! You'll cause your oil seal to pop out and you'll end up having a huge mess like I did.
Go to Autozone and get the Chrysler Harmonic Balancer Removal tool. It works beautifully BUT you have to do something in order to NOT BOTTOM OUT during removal. Find a bolt that will fit inside the tool hole easily. Cut off about 1/2" to 3/4" of it and put it into the hole, then use the long rod provided in the tool to go up into the crankshaft. If you need help on how to hold the motor so it won't turn over while you are removing the pulley, let me know.
The problem with the tool is that without the extra shim, it bottoms out and won't allow the pulley to come all the way off. Use the tool with the shim, and it pops off oh so easily. I have had to use this tool and shim 4 times in the past year, so trust me on this one.
As for putting it back on, DO NOT DO THE HEAT AND SEAT, BEAT AND BANG BS! That is pure crap! And may cause your oil pump seal to unseat.....Also, don't try to use your crank bolt to pull it back on as you will likely strip threads inside the crank and have hell getting the whole mess to tighten back up and will have to go to a machine shop to get a M12 x 1.75 x 5" long tap to fix it up again........Nouf said.
I went to Miller Specialty tools and bought the proper tool (I don't know the part number offhand but will post it later for you). It was cheap, easy to use, and works great for both the timing belt pulley and crank pulley.
This is not hard and since you get your money back for the other tool, cheap.
Go to Autozone and get the Chrysler Harmonic Balancer Removal tool. It works beautifully BUT you have to do something in order to NOT BOTTOM OUT during removal. Find a bolt that will fit inside the tool hole easily. Cut off about 1/2" to 3/4" of it and put it into the hole, then use the long rod provided in the tool to go up into the crankshaft. If you need help on how to hold the motor so it won't turn over while you are removing the pulley, let me know.
The problem with the tool is that without the extra shim, it bottoms out and won't allow the pulley to come all the way off. Use the tool with the shim, and it pops off oh so easily. I have had to use this tool and shim 4 times in the past year, so trust me on this one.
As for putting it back on, DO NOT DO THE HEAT AND SEAT, BEAT AND BANG BS! That is pure crap! And may cause your oil pump seal to unseat.....Also, don't try to use your crank bolt to pull it back on as you will likely strip threads inside the crank and have hell getting the whole mess to tighten back up and will have to go to a machine shop to get a M12 x 1.75 x 5" long tap to fix it up again........Nouf said.
I went to Miller Specialty tools and bought the proper tool (I don't know the part number offhand but will post it later for you). It was cheap, easy to use, and works great for both the timing belt pulley and crank pulley.
This is not hard and since you get your money back for the other tool, cheap.
BTW, since it appears that the previous owner did not replace the water pump - do you know if he replaced the timing belt and tensioner? I don't know how you are doing cash wise, but since it is a pain to do-over, I would go for piece of mind and do both.
Ebay Item number 260474430546 from Mizumo auto is an excellent source to get both for $80.10 shipped. I bought my rebuild kit from them and was well pleased - and they even honored the warranty when I thought I had a bad oil pump.
Ebay Item number 260474430546 from Mizumo auto is an excellent source to get both for $80.10 shipped. I bought my rebuild kit from them and was well pleased - and they even honored the warranty when I thought I had a bad oil pump.


