timing problem
#1
11-22-2009, 07:35 PM
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timing problem
My son has a 99 neon.it quit running yesterday.I had a friend come and look at it.he took the valvecover off and said the cams were not turning.He said it was probably the timingbelt.He said it was not a difficult job to do so Im going to start on it tommorow.Hope I can count on some help from ya'll cause i've never done this before.Im a chevy man but we've had this car for 5 years now so i can't just let it die its been a good car.Anyway thanks.
#2
11-22-2009, 08:56 PM
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Most likely, the timing belt popped as your friend stated since it was running. These engines are interference engines, so you may have additional problems depending on when/how the belt went out.
Get a Haynes manual. It helps, alot. Buy a full timing belt kit that includes the belt and idler(s). Buy a new water pump. Get both on eBay from mizumo auto (I've used them three times now - good service, great prices).
SOHC:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-00...Q5fAccessories
DOHC
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-99...Q5fAccessories
You may want to invest in a leakdown tester (or have someone do it for you) to confirm/deny any valve damage. I recommend it as it is quite likely. Mine was damaged when the belt popped and I had to replace both exhaust and 1 intake valve on the #1 cylinder. I DO NOT recommend a compression test as 1) you have to have the timing belt installed to even try it, and 2) if you do have damage, it will make it worse. Harbor Freight sells one for $40.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94190
It is not a hard job, but the most aggravating part of the entire thing is once you take off the engine front motor mount (passenger side of car), you have to play the up and down game with the engine over and over with the floor jack on the engine oil pan to get the mount bolts in and out as well as gain better access to the various parts of the engine front for easier removal.
Also, if you want the job to be very much easier, you can get the following tools:
http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=190 sells the harmonic balancer installer tool that costs $40 from Miller specialty tools. Makes installing the press fit harmonic balancer a breeze.
From your local Autozone, get part number OEM #27139 the Chrysler Harmonic Balancer puller tool. You will need to add a 1/2 inch shim that fits up inside the hole of the bolt (cut a small bolt) and use the longest push rod in the kit. When you return the tool, you get your money back as it costs $60 to borrow it.
If you use both of these tools, it is easy as pie to pull that puppy off, and you won't have to beat and bang, or heat and beat, or otherwise struggle to get it off/on and quite possibly cause your front oil seal to pop out (like what happened to me the 1st time when I did not have the proper tools) and cause even more problems (like the second complete rebuild in a month)......
Good luck and have fun. If you need more help, just add to this post. Whenever it is updated, it automatically pops to the top of the stack of all of the threads to show it has been modified. Folks on this forum are good about answering questions fairly fast (even the "dumb" ones.) without beating you up about your lack of knowledge for which I am glad, because a year ago, I did not know squat about Neons - other then I liked driving them.
Get a Haynes manual. It helps, alot. Buy a full timing belt kit that includes the belt and idler(s). Buy a new water pump. Get both on eBay from mizumo auto (I've used them three times now - good service, great prices).
SOHC:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-00...Q5fAccessories
DOHC
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-99...Q5fAccessories
You may want to invest in a leakdown tester (or have someone do it for you) to confirm/deny any valve damage. I recommend it as it is quite likely. Mine was damaged when the belt popped and I had to replace both exhaust and 1 intake valve on the #1 cylinder. I DO NOT recommend a compression test as 1) you have to have the timing belt installed to even try it, and 2) if you do have damage, it will make it worse. Harbor Freight sells one for $40.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94190
It is not a hard job, but the most aggravating part of the entire thing is once you take off the engine front motor mount (passenger side of car), you have to play the up and down game with the engine over and over with the floor jack on the engine oil pan to get the mount bolts in and out as well as gain better access to the various parts of the engine front for easier removal.
Also, if you want the job to be very much easier, you can get the following tools:
http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=190 sells the harmonic balancer installer tool that costs $40 from Miller specialty tools. Makes installing the press fit harmonic balancer a breeze.
From your local Autozone, get part number OEM #27139 the Chrysler Harmonic Balancer puller tool. You will need to add a 1/2 inch shim that fits up inside the hole of the bolt (cut a small bolt) and use the longest push rod in the kit. When you return the tool, you get your money back as it costs $60 to borrow it.
If you use both of these tools, it is easy as pie to pull that puppy off, and you won't have to beat and bang, or heat and beat, or otherwise struggle to get it off/on and quite possibly cause your front oil seal to pop out (like what happened to me the 1st time when I did not have the proper tools) and cause even more problems (like the second complete rebuild in a month)......
Good luck and have fun. If you need more help, just add to this post. Whenever it is updated, it automatically pops to the top of the stack of all of the threads to show it has been modified. Folks on this forum are good about answering questions fairly fast (even the "dumb" ones.) without beating you up about your lack of knowledge for which I am glad, because a year ago, I did not know squat about Neons - other then I liked driving them.
#4
11-23-2009, 06:47 PM
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#5
11-24-2009, 10:37 PM
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Got it all together it runs good so far no problems.While I was working on it I found a couple vacuum leaks.Now I know why the cruise quit working, no vacuum.I want to say thanks for the replys and the advice it help alot.Im actually proud of myself cause I've never done this before. Thanks
#6
11-25-2009, 10:15 AM
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#7
12-01-2009, 03:59 AM
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my 97 has popped timing belts twice.. once when the previous owner was crusing down the freeway at 65... so turning about 2700 rpm and once right before bought it when the water pump failed and tore the belt off at idle both times no internal damage at all...this last time i just replaced the belt and the water pump took about 4hours but i wasn't working at it hard... the hardest part i think was getting to the belt and putting everthing back together the actual installing the belt part is pretty damn easy... just make sure the timing marks are lined up its easy as pie... just make sure you install a new water pump at the same time even if its been changed its just piece of mind if you don't 9 times out of 10 the water pump will go out soon afterwards leaving you in the same boat yet again....
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#8
12-02-2009, 07:52 AM
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It was pretty easy and i got lucky and it did not hurt anything.Im unemployed right now and my son is going to school so there really is'nt any extra money.This place was alot of help with all the tips they have on here and the replys from other people.So even tho I myself do'nt own a dodge i think I well hang around here and learn somemore.Thanks